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Routes in Big Toe to Great Chimney

Barn Dance TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Coup de Gras T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Double Jeopardy T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Grand Illusion T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Homo Erectus T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Icarus TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Impervious Horror TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Modern Life is Rubbish T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Lucky TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Psamead Ghostdance T,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stuck Knee T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 45 ft
FA: ????
Page Views: 106 total, 2/month
Shared By: Burt Lindquist on Oct 8, 2012
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

It is of a sustained 5.9 nature of climbing. Pulling over the little ledge near the top is maybe the most physical move. Resisting stemming over to the left hand wall is the mental crux. The climbing is a bit harder if you don't stem over and keep both feet on the right wall. Nice finger locks in the crack section at 3/4 height below the little ledge with the angular shaped block sitting on it. The first 30 feet has some very mildy loose flakes and somewhat fragile rock but it is for the most part OK. This climb is "named" due to the similar nature of the rock and the rock climbing to another well know DL classic albiet quite a bit easier.

Location

West Bluff... West Rampart... Big Toe to SOGC area. Situated between routes "Foie Gros" and "Homo Erectus". Get up to halfway ledge system in this area any which way you like....

Protection

Pretty good gear between small to mid sized stoppers and cams at about every body length. It gets better as you climb higher.

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