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Routes in Big Toe to Great Chimney

Barn Dance TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Coup de Gras T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Double Jeopardy T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Grand Illusion T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Homo Erectus T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Icarus TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Impervious Horror TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Modern Life is Rubbish T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Lucky TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Psamead Ghostdance T,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stuck Knee T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 65 ft
FA: Existing route with no name.
Page Views: 87 total, 1/month
Shared By: Burt Lindquist on Sep 11, 2012
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

The crux is an overhanging crack that climbs up into a notch chimney, a nice hand crack leads to big jugs to get climber into the notch above at a reasonable grade. The small chimney has a hand crack at the back that leads up and climber escapes to ledge on the right and surmounts a final nifty but short corner.

Location

Route 41 page 272 of 3rd edition of Climber's Guide to Devil's Lake. Climbs up the bulbous and hanging buttress that lies between the route "Grand Illusion" to the left as climber looks up from below and route "Homo Erectus" to the right. Unless you work your way up to the ledge system at mid cliff height as the guide suggests you need to climb up the pine needle ridden and tree limb obscured crack and ledge system that leads directly to the gnarley Cedar tree that lies just below the crux section on the a-formentioned ledge system. Don't let the mossy look of these lower moves and cracks scare you off.. it's good climbing with fun finger locks and mantle moves onto the periodic ledges.

Protection

Protection is excellent all the way with a standard varied DL lead rack and especially well protected at the crux overhanging crack section.

Photos

Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
The final moves are a hoot, more fun than it looks. Sep 12, 2012