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Routes in Big Toe to Great Chimney

Barn Dance TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Coup de Gras T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Double Jeopardy T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Grand Illusion T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Homo Erectus T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Icarus TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Impervious Horror TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Modern Life is Rubbish T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Lucky TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Psamead Ghostdance T,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stuck Knee T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, TR
FA: Tommy Deutchler
Page Views: 302 total, 3/month
Shared By: Alex A on Sep 8, 2010
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

This was a old aid line, called Bivouac Ledge 5.7 A1, starts about 10ft left of the start of SOGC, climb up to ledge with boulder below overhang, pass overhang and move right to crack to Bivouac Ledge, then work your way to the top,

Protection

TR, Trad?

Photos

Remo
Madison, WI
  5.12b
Remo   Madison, WI
  5.12b
This is a hidden gem of a route! Pretty sustained middle section getting to the ledge. Jun 8, 2016
Josh Knapp
East Troy, Wisconsin
 
Josh Knapp   East Troy, Wisconsin
 
Thanks Fellas! Nov 3, 2014
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
Josh, Nice send of a cool line! Not sure if Tommy led this rig. Only way to find out is to track him down at the bar or motor court where he lives. Beware if a ya go to his hovel he might answer the door in an apron and handgun! Club salute fer yer efforts. Peace and fuk-nes, Steve S. (Now puke) Nov 2, 2014
Remo
Madison, WI
  5.12b
Remo   Madison, WI
  5.12b
Very cool! Nice work Josh! Nov 2, 2014
Josh Knapp
East Troy, Wisconsin
 
Josh Knapp   East Troy, Wisconsin
 
This is a fantastic line with great exposure and wild movement! I'm not sure why this one doesn't get more attention. I led this the other day, head point style, starting on the left face of the gully, then continuing to the pins on Son of a Great Chimney. Moving left, a techy traverse on slopers leads to a cramped stance and good gear under the roof. Clip the old pin and pull through powerful moves to a bomber finger lock and good nuts. Move right through a devious crux and a low percentage move that resulted in repeated whippers on my redpoint burns. Gain the slab, some good gear, and move left around the corner to one more powerful move up the finger crack. I'd say this thing goes around 12b and is certainly one of the best protected 12's at the lake! Get on it!
Possible FA? That would be cool! Nov 2, 2014
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
Happy to change it Paul, back to it's original name. Aug 28, 2012
pwags  
This route was originally put up on top rope by Tommy & Rob Drysdale. The name was actually Psamead Ghostdance. Not sure why the revisionists at the CMC changed it, hopefully an innocent mistake. The original name combined mysticism from the Sitting Bull's Ghostdance with the Psamead from Jack Ness mythology, which unfortunately is lost in the name change. Aug 28, 2012
Alex A
 
Alex A  
 
Are you talking about cracks right after the roof one go's straight up vs moving right, or is it higher, to my knowledge the left crack after the roof, has not been climbed or the face, Sep 22, 2010
Did anyone follow the cracks then split left before the ledge to follow more crack to the top? Or try the left side of that face entirely? Sep 20, 2010
Alex A
 
Alex A  
 
Not sure about that, need to go to Tommy's trailer to find out, there is some gear at the crux, would be a great onsight vs working the shit out of it, then leading, has been lead old school 5.7 A1,

I think there maybe a harder var, climbing straight up vs moving right after roof, Sep 10, 2010
Ah, I remember looking at this awhile ago wondering if there was a line. Did Tommy lead it? Sep 9, 2010