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Routes in Big Toe to Great Chimney

Barn Dance TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Coup de Gras T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Double Jeopardy T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Grand Illusion T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Homo Erectus T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Icarus TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Impervious Horror TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Modern Life is Rubbish T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Lucky TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Psamead Ghostdance T,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stuck Knee T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 109 total · 1/month
Shared By: Tom Anderson-Brown on May 2, 2003
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

Double Jeopardy is just south of the Great Chimney and is somewhat easily located. Look for the most inviting dihedral amongst about 4-5 dihedrals on this wall. About 25 feet up there is a large tree growing from a ledge. Start out on easier terrain. Once you reach the tree the angle steepens. The first real diffuculty occurs below a hanging chimney. Go left of the chimney and surmount a large ledge with a dead fallen tree trunk on it. Pass the trunk and find the crux, a steep face which can be a bit of a puzzle to figure out. If leading, be sure to use your slings wisely to avoid rope drag.

Protection

Standard rack with a couple long slings.

Photos

Aawait
 
Aawait  
 
The bottom was somewhat dirty for me, but climbing past the two chalk stones in the chimney was fun and there was plenty of pro. Sep 9, 2012
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
 
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
 
This route is a dirty grovel fest. Avoid it. Jul 16, 2007