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Routes in Big Toe to Great Chimney

Barn Dance TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Coup de Gras T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Double Jeopardy T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Grand Illusion T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Homo Erectus T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Icarus TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Impervious Horror TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Modern Life is Rubbish T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Lucky TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Psamead Ghostdance T,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stuck Knee T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Alex Andrews on TR, Kris Gorny on lead
Page Views: 141 total, 2/month
Shared By: Kris Gorny on Aug 27, 2012
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

Ascend ledges 15ft to the tree and climb the obvious weakness in the middle of a steep face. Scarce pro on the bottom, decent small pro just before the crux. Sizeable runout through the crux. Little tricky but fun moves overall.

Not sure what the name is and whether this has been led or TR'd before or by who. Any info would be appreciated!

Location

Buttress mid between Stuck Knee and Grand Illusion. See beta pictures below.

Protection

BD C3's and Wild Country Ultralights (or equivalent).

Photos

waxisgood
Milwaukee, WI
  5.10c PG13
waxisgood   Milwaukee, WI
  5.10c PG13
Very nice route with enjoyable movement. My partner and I did not feel like it was R with the gear we had. Nov 6, 2016
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Alex and Chris. I got on this myself on TR this week past and its pretty great little climb gem I think. Way to go. Erol Altay has establish the arete to the right now as a TR and also the face around the corner even further right and they are very worthy of everyone's attention I must say. Oct 8, 2012
Kris Gorny    
 
Alex -- we could not find it in any of the guidebooks and the cliff was mossy and very dirty. I spotted this from the top of Grand Illusion and liked it because from that location it looked a little like Wild West Homo. But initially I was not sure if it would even go. So no, no OS :) Oct 8, 2012
Alex Andrews
  5.10+ R
Alex Andrews  
  5.10+ R
I did the FA on TR about 18 yrs ago, do not remember the name, give Swartling the info, should be in the S&M guide book, as I do not have a copy of S&M guide, not sure if it's there, road my mt bike my up service road to clean, it was dirty and removed some loose rock, look at for a lead, but big chicken after I shattered my ankle on an R route at J-Tree,
nice lead, onsight or headpoint Sep 7, 2012
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
LOL!!! Aug 27, 2012
Kris Gorny    
 
Chris -- you asked for it :) Aug 27, 2012
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
Give it a name anyway Kris, if someone else did it they can chime in.

"?" doesn't quite do it for me.

Nice job! Aug 27, 2012
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
New to me. I'd believe it's an FA! Aug 27, 2012
Kris Gorny    
 
Yeah, maybe the chimney is #42 on Swartling's guidebook. Sorry, initially I didn't realize what S&M referred to. Aug 27, 2012
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
That's what I'm asking? Aug 27, 2012
Kris Gorny    
 
Doug, is S&M #42 the chimney to the left of that face? Aug 27, 2012
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
To the right of S&M route #42? Aug 27, 2012