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Routes in Big Toe to Great Chimney

Barn Dance TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Coup de Gras T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Double Jeopardy T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Grand Illusion T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Homo Erectus T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Icarus TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Impervious Horror TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Modern Life is Rubbish T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Lucky TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Psamead Ghostdance T,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stuck Knee T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,646 total · 20/month
Shared By: John W. Knoernschild on Jul 7, 2007
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Start in the north inside corner of the recessed section, climb 15 feet to the first ledge. Then up a crack to the base of a narrow chimney. Climb Chimney (crux) to the ledge above. Pull up over the overhanging ledge and finish in 12 foot inside corner


Right near Great Chimney. Just to the right of Double Jeopardy.


standard rack
Bob Kryzer
Bob Kryzer   Minnesota
I was belaying someone on this route for there first trad lead and well... just like the name states, his knee got stuck in the large crack on top of the route. He was struggling for a good 5 minutes trying to get it out. I felt rather sorry for the guy. Jan 10, 2009
John W. Knoernschild
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
That story made me laugh my ass of Bob. Thx for sharing. Jul 10, 2009
This route is a very good lead, worthy of 3 stars IMO. A #5 camalot or friend is greatly appreciated for the last 15 feet.

Wags Oct 21, 2009
Anyone ever attempt the face to the left of this? Sep 20, 2010
Ryan Strong
Golden, CO
Ryan Strong   Golden, CO
good sustained offwidth climbing..#5 and 4.5 camalots Jun 28, 2011
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Short video of Doug Hemken leading the final little upper corner of Stuck Knee route West Bluff 6-16-13. Jun 18, 2013
Madison, WI
Remo   Madison, WI
I can't believe I never climbed this before. A great lead for the grade! Aug 14, 2013

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