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Routes in Big Toe to Great Chimney

Barn Dance TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Coup de Gras T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Double Jeopardy T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Grand Illusion T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Homo Erectus T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Icarus TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Impervious Horror TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Modern Life is Rubbish T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Lucky TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Psamead Ghostdance T,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stuck Knee T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: ???
Page Views: 2,167 total · 15/month
Shared By: Burton Lindquist on May 3, 2006
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description [Suggest Change]

In Swartling's guide the route is shown as starting of ledge DD at Prospect Point Rampart.
This is true but a better and more fun option is to climb the route from the ground via the 5.10b variation start that is a goody in itself (although can be wet and gooey right at the base).
The upper Grand Illusion part of the route proper is a gem too. Very nice crack up into a overhanging crack/groove. Well protected and classic stiff 5.9. The crux here is pulling through the overhanging crack via locks and a throw to sharp jugs (all after hang'n out below it and placing gear). If you fall - no problem- it is pure air.

Location [Suggest Change]

Approximately at left end of Prospect Point Rampart wall proper. Variation start from base is right of Big Toe formation.

Protection [Suggest Change]

All bomber natural chocks (big wires), tricams, and cams.

Photos

Tradiban
  5.9+
Tradiban  
  5.9+
I think I did some sort of "Double Direct" today. I pulled the corner with the thin crack (5.10-) and then instead of taking the obvious right hand crack I traversed left on some good pockets in a horizontal to a series on mantles (5.9+) directly up to the overhang. It was X rated that way with no pro on the traverse and through the mantles. Sep 20, 2010
Burton Lindquist
Madison, WI
 
Burton Lindquist   Madison, WI  
 
TR'd that variation with Doug once and it is good. We climbed directly up from below avoiding the 10- crack variation all together.
Leave it up to you Nick to seek this out while on the lead.... no gear in that middle section.... Sep 21, 2010
Ok. Make it triple-direct. Start with V2 move on slab left of direct start, then go up slab to overhanging finish. Almost as much fun as Sandy Wegener's deviant version of Brinton's. Oct 3, 2012
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
  5.10- R
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
  5.10- R
We thought the "double direct" was the intended route today, didn't read these comments beforehand. Runout and a bit frightening indeed on lead. Great route with an exciting and surprisingly hard finish. Sep 15, 2016

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