Avg: 2.8 from 4 votes
Routes in The Tan Buttresses
|Anniversary Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Astro Goat T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0|
|Black and Tan Towers, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Damn it Feels Good to be a Hamsta T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Dog Fight T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Fallen Angel T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Gimp Route, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Goat Food T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Hard to Say T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Hoag-Fisher T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Lazy Sunday Route T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|MOAC Memorial Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Musafar's Home Cookin' T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Noth'N But a Good Time T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R|
|Pin Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Space Miser T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Work-Life Balance T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 550 ft, 5 pitches|
|FA:||M. Nuttleman, B. Collett, August 2012|
|Page Views:||158 total, 2/month|
|Shared By:||Ben Collett on Aug 18, 2012|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is another fantastic Tan Buttress 5.10. The fourth pitch in particular is a gorgeous, exposed finger and hand crack. On the first ascent, Max and I kept on commenting on the extent to which the climbing throughout did not suck.
1) Follow vertical cracks to the roof on the first pitch of Dog Fight, climb through the roof and follow Dog Fight up to a belay on the top of Tan Buttress Spire. 5.10-, 140 feet.
2) From Tan Buttress Spire, take the left-angling flake system out left to the large, left-facing corner to the left of the second pitch of Dog Fight. Follow the corner, underclinging flakes out left and then climbing back into the corner proper and follow the corner to its top. Be careful with rope drag. It may stop you short. 5.10+, 130 feet.
3) Follow wide cracks up broken ground up and left to the base of a prominent, left-angling crack system. 5.8, 100 feet.
4) Follow the crack system until it becomes a gorgeous hand and finger crack in a shallow left face corner/flake system. Follow this and belay just before it ends at a decent stance. 5.10, 130 feet.
5) Climb up the flake system until it ends on a ledge, step right into a squeeze chimney, climb it, and follow easier terrain until 3rd and 4th class terrain is encountered.
A short scramble will put you on the summit.