Avg: 2.5 from 6 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 560 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||B. Collett & J. Thompson, Aug., 2010|
|Page Views:||156 total · 2/month|
|Shared By:||J. Thompson on Aug 15, 2010|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionPitch 1: Start up discontinous crack systems. These lead basically straight up for 20 feet or so until it is possible to traverse right over a roof/overlap. Once the roof has been surmounted, follow the diagonaling finger crack/flake back left and under the next and bigger roof. Climb out this roof on its left side. Continue up the easier cracks above to a ledge system. Instead of belaying here, climb the short chimney behind the huge pillar. Belay at the top of the Pillar. Save a couple of medium-sized cams for the belay. A nice belay spot! 5.10, 130 feet.
Pitch 2: Locate the bolt on the steep rock above and to the right of the belay. Climb past the bolt on steep rock using cool face holds. Trend left into the obvious crack system. Follow this to a very nice ledge. 5.10, 140 feet.
Pitch 3: Continue up the obvious line above the belay. End at another very nice ledge, below a left-trending corner with a nice crack. 5.8, 60 feet.
Pitch 4: Climb the aforementioned corner above the belay. When the crack pinchs to nothing do some corner switching face climbing to the left. Follow the next crack system up. It is steep and starts out flared. Do not traverse into the huge chimney out left. Follow this crack system up through some interesting stemming. End at another very nice ledge, with a left curving (and dead end) crack directly above. You'll need at least 1 #3 Camalot for the belay, maybe save a #2 as well. 5.10, 130 feet.
Pitch 5: Step right off the ledge on a foot rail and gain the corner/crack system. Layback or jam up the corner to a ledge system. Head right following the path of least resistance towards the ridge line. 5.9, 100 feet.
LocationWalk past the first 4 routes on the Tan Buttresses.
You'll come across a slab of polished rock in between the first and second Buttresses. Dog Fight starts on the right side of the slab.