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Routes in The Tan Buttresses

Anniversary Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Astro Goat T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0
Black and Tan Towers, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Damn it Feels Good to be a Hamsta T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dog Fight T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fallen Angel T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Gimp Route, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Goat Food T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Hard to Say T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hoag-Fisher T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lazy Sunday Route T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
MOAC Memorial Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Musafar's Home Cookin' T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Noth'N But a Good Time T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Pin Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Space Miser T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Work-Life Balance T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 600 ft, 5 pitches
FA: A. Dodd, B. Collett, August, 2010
Page Views: 178 total, 2/month
Shared By: Ben Collett on Aug 14, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route starts with the fun part of the Gimp Route and then climbs some more pleasant pitches in a nice position.

Start with the first two (fun) pitches of the Gimp Route, but belay on the far left of the grassy ledge atop the 2nd pitch.

3) Step left around the arete onto the front side of the buttress and climb easy ground and grassy steps up for a little over a 100 feet to a really nice grassy ledge. Walk left 25 feet or so from the arete to belay below a flake system. 5.6.

4) Climb into the flake system, then follow the arete to another ledge after 60 feet or so. Belay below an obvious, steep, hand and fist crack. 5.9.

5) Climb the hand and fist crack to the top of the wall. 5.9+, maybe 50 feet. This pitch can easily be avoided by climbing the gully to the right.

Location

The same start as the Gimp Route, on a broken 30 foot high pillar at the far end of the buttress with Fallen Angel and Noth'n but a Good Time.

Protection

Standard Rack through #4 C4 Camalot

Photos

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