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Routes in The Tan Buttresses

Anniversary Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Astro Goat T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0
Black and Tan Towers, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Damn it Feels Good to be a Hamsta T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dog Fight T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fallen Angel T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Gimp Route, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Goat Food T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Hard to Say T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hoag-Fisher T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lazy Sunday Route T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
MOAC Memorial Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Musafar's Home Cookin' T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Noth'N But a Good Time T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Pin Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Space Miser T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Work-Life Balance T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 350 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Nathan Hoag, Jack Fisher
Page Views: 211 total, 3/month
Shared By: JFisher on Jul 14, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

P1 - start left of "Lazy Sunday" one blocky slabs or left side of left-facing dihedral (preferred), underneath obvious roof + handcrack above. Meander to find gear up to a small belay ledge approximately 35' below roof + crack. 5.9(R), 90'.

P2 - climb a nice crack system through some grass hummocks up and into the overhang. Climb through nice finger crack right of overhang or stem on the left side, eventually gaining the right-facing handcrack above in either scenario. #4 cam works nicely just below roof, FYI. Jam through the NICE handcrack (50') and onto some easier terrain, eventually sharing a belay with "Lazy Sunday" underneath second roof. 5.10, 130'.

P3 - climb left (as opposed to right, as for "Lazy") through detached pillar and then around the corner, reaching the finger crack / corner system mentioned in "MOAC" description. Jam/stem up through steep/thin corner eventually reaching a thin seam and slab (crux). Work right through some sidepulls and eventually easier terrain above gains the huge, grassy ledge shared by all routes. 5.10+, 150'.

Merge with "Anniversary" and/or "Nothin'" flake and handcrack pitches from here to round out a fantastic link-up!

Note: it may be preferrable to extend the 2nd pitch around the pillar to lessen the meandering nature of 3rd pitch, although rope drag was not an issue for our us utilizing the shared belay ledge.

Photos coming soon! (and perhaps a name change, w*nk).

Location

This is between "MOAC" and "Lazy Sunday."

Protection

Standard rack to #4, doubles on small cams up to #2 were very helpful.

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