Type: Trad, Alpine, 600 ft, 5 pitches
FA: T. Roy, B. Collett, July 2012
Page Views: 905 total · 11/month
Shared By: Ben Collett on Jul 23, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Not that I'd know how it feels. This is the first route to the top of the tallest tower on the Tan Buttresses. It has some choss, but the crux pitch is great steep crack climbing on mostly excellent rock.

1) Climb into the corner system and follow it to a grassy ledge shared with the first pitch of Dog Fight. Follow a ramp up and left until your rope or rope drag requires you stop. 5.9.

2) Continue up and left along the ramp until a pleasant dihedral is reached. Belay at the top of the dihedral below some steep roofs on a nice ledge. 5.7. Pitches 1 and 2 are a combined 320 ft.

3) Traverse right under the roof directly above the belay and climb up an overhanging corner system to get established on the slightly less than vertical wall above. Head right into the prominant chimney system and follow that until you are below a fantastic looking finger and hand crack that breaks off to the left of the chimney system. 5.10 130ft.

4) Follow the finger and hand crack for 80ft or so, traversing right at the top of a pegmatite band into a steep chimney system. Follow this over an overhang and belay. 5.11+/12- 100ft.

5) Continue up the chimney system to the top of the wall. 5.8 50ft.

Location

It starts 40 or so feet left of the start of Dog Fight, below a fairly prominant right facing corner system.

Protection

We took nuts, a double set of cams to #3 camalot and singles of #4 and #5. That worked well.

Photos