Type: Trad, Alpine, 600 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Dougald MacDonald, Joe Sambataro (9/24/11)
Page Views: 1,915 total · 20/month
Shared By: Joe Sambataro on Sep 27, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

The route climbs a series of cracks just left of the flying buttress for a pitch and a half before climbing ridge proper to the summit. The first half of the climb offers exceptional climbing before finishing up on a classic ridge.

Pitch 1: Climb a short section of loose rock and pull left around the first roof. Move up and right to another short roof - I unintentionally fixed a #3 stopper in the roof, but it will be useful protection since the pro is a little thin here. From here, climb a sustained series of laybacking, stemming, and jamming. At the top of this crack, traverse right around a large flake and up a short but splitter off-fingers crack to a small ledge. 5.10.

Pitch 2: Climb a series of cracks rightward towards the protruding arete high on the buttress (this is where Musafar's Home Cookin' crosses our line and continues up cracks on the left side of the buttress). Climb the arete directly and at a horizontal crack, traverse right to the center of the buttress and ascend a stellar, balancy face crack on golden granite. Belay directly below a tiered roof system. 5.9.

Pitch 3: Climb up and over the tiered roof to reach a fun double crack system. Climb up large but solid flakes on easier ground. 5.8.

Pitch 4: A short wide section and suspect block leads to more fun ridge climbing. This is approximately where Musafar's... rejoins the ridge and our route shares the final ridge traverse. 5.7.

Pitch 5: Continue up the ridge on low fifth to the summit as for Musafar's..., Astro Goat, and Goat Food.

Location

Look for a crack and roof system about 100 feet right of Astro Goat. Musafar's Home Cookin' starts further around on the right side of the buttress.

Protection

Standard rack to #4 with doubles in small and mid-sized cams.

Photos