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Routes in The Tan Buttresses

Anniversary Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Astro Goat T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0
Black and Tan Towers, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Damn it Feels Good to be a Hamsta T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dog Fight T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fallen Angel T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Gimp Route, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Goat Food T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Hard to Say T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hoag-Fisher T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lazy Sunday Route T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
MOAC Memorial Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Musafar's Home Cookin' T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Noth'N But a Good Time T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Pin Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Space Miser T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Work-Life Balance T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: maybe Seth H. and Taylor B.
Page Views: 1,508 total, 28/month
Shared By: Taylor-B. on Jul 8, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

The Black and Tan Towers are located at the far east end of the Tan Wall. There are two options to reach the towers; descend down the standard Tan Wall 3rd class ramp or for a short easy approach after climbing one of the other Tan Wall routes, continue along the ridge and drop down the 2nd class gulley to the east. There are three towers and they are all easy walk offs from one to the other.

Tower 1: Pitch 1, locate two left facing corners (choose one) on the far east side of the tower and climb up to a thin 5.9 seam that will gain a nice belay terrace on the SE corner, below a white-peg corner.
Pitch 2, climb the corner, traverse left to gain the prominent right facing corner 5.7.

Tower 2: Pitch 1, climb the wide crack system up to a nice belay stance 5.8 100ft.
Pitch 2, climb the hand crack directly above the belay, scoot left to some black rock with a fist crack and continue to the top along the ridge 5.8 200ft.

Tower 3: Pitch 1, climb the striking hand and finger crack up the center of the golden/orange tower 5.8.

Protection

Single rack of small cams, doubles in hands and fists and one BD#4.

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