Type: Trad, Alpine, 550 ft (167 m), 6 pitches
FA: J. Finkelstein, B. Collett, July 2011
Page Views: 4,203 total · 37/month
Shared By: Ben Collett on Jul 17, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

This is a very pleasant, well-protected route. It is definitely the best of the easier routes in the Black Wall Cirque. A few more ascents should make it very clean and enjoyable.

1) Climb the pillar, stepping right at its top and climb up a steep, water featured ramp, ending on its left side after about 115 feet below a steep handcrack in a right facing corner. 5.8.

2) Pull into the corner, and climb it until it ends in a ledgy section. Veer up and left and belay below a roof and a compact looking dihedral after about 100 feet. 5.10-.

3) Climb up the dihedral, passing delightfully featured rock to the roof. Head right under the roof until it is possible to follow a flake with a handcrack behind it up and left. Belay by a couple of spikes at the top of this flake after about 100 feet. There is a wide flare above and to the left of this belay. 5.10-.

4) Step right and climb a steep flake to a good horizontal cam placement. Trend back left to the top of the flare and exit onto a small grassy ledge. Continue up nebulous terrain to a much larger grassy ledge. Walk left a few feet and belay below the fourth pitch of Anniversary Route. 5.9.

5) Climb a few feet up the shallow corner until it ends and it is possible to step right into a large flake. Follow this flake up and right to the arete. Follow the arete to another large grassy ledge. 5.9.

6) Climb the excellent steep hand and fist crack on the right side of the next wall to the top. This pitch is shared with the Anniversary Route as well.

Location

Start in the same place as the Gimp Route and the Anniversary Route - at a pillr of broken rock on the right side of the first Tan Buttress.

Protection

Some nuts an a single set of cams to 4 inches should suffice. Perhaps a second midsize piece might be nice.

Photos