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Routes in The Tan Buttresses

Anniversary Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Astro Goat T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0
Black and Tan Towers, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Damn it Feels Good to be a Hamsta T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dog Fight T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fallen Angel T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Gimp Route, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Goat Food T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Hard to Say T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hoag-Fisher T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lazy Sunday Route T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
MOAC Memorial Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Musafar's Home Cookin' T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Noth'N But a Good Time T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Pin Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Space Miser T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Work-Life Balance T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 550 ft, 6 pitches
FA: J. Finkelstein, B. Collett, July 2011
Page Views: 3,109 total, 40/month
Shared By: Ben Collett on Jul 17, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a very pleasant, well-protected route. It is definitely the best of the easier routes in the Black Wall Cirque. A few more ascents should make it very clean and enjoyable.

1) Climb the pillar, stepping right at its top and climb up a steep, water featured ramp, ending on its left side after about 115 feet below a steep handcrack in a right facing corner. 5.8.

2) Pull into the corner, and climb it until it ends in a ledgy section. Veer up and left and belay below a roof and a compact looking dihedral after about 100 feet. 5.10-.

3) Climb up the dihedral, passing delightfully featured rock to the roof. Head right under the roof until it is possible to follow a flake with a handcrack behind it up and left. Belay by a couple of spikes at the top of this flake after about 100 feet. There is a wide flare above and to the left of this belay. 5.10-.

4) Step right and climb a steep flake to a good horizontal cam placement. Trend back left to the top of the flare and exit onto a small grassy ledge. Continue up nebulous terrain to a much larger grassy ledge. Walk left a few feet and belay below the fourth pitch of Anniversary Route. 5.9.

5) Climb a few feet up the shallow corner until it ends and it is possible to step right into a large flake. Follow this flake up and right to the arete. Follow the arete to another large grassy ledge. 5.9.

6) Climb the excellent steep hand and fist crack on the right side of the next wall to the top. This pitch is shared with the Anniversary Route as well.

Location

Start in the same place as the Gimp Route and the Anniversary Route - at a pillr of broken rock on the right side of the first Tan Buttress.

Protection

Some nuts an a single set of cams to 4 inches should suffice. Perhaps a second midsize piece might be nice.
Jason Killgore
boulder, co
 
Jason Killgore   boulder, co
 
Fun route! Is seems the ramp on P1 can be climbed in the grassy corner or out on the face of the ramp to the right. We chose the latter option and found excellent, featured climbing with very good protection. Having briefly considered staying in the corner, it was a pleasant surprise to find such nice climbing out right. Jul 7, 2014
Kevin Gillest
Arvada, CO
  5.10b
Kevin Gillest   Arvada, CO
  5.10b
Great moderate alpine climbing.
P1, 5.8, 120 ft slightly challenging to find starting point.
P2, 10a, 100 ft hand crack to grassy ledge.

P3, 10a, 120 ft shallow corner under roof, right traverse, up to grassy ledge.

P4, 10b, 100 ft step left from belay, climb steep flake/finger crack, not sure if this was part of the original route? Ending on grassy ledge.

P5, 10b, 80 ft, left-facing dihedral, climb crack system left of corner to top out, not sure this was part of the original route?

Jul 22, 2013
Very fun half-day route. I recommend doing the second and third pitches short, stopping on good ledges after each 5.10a crux (top of the steep corner on the second, and right after the roof traverse on the third). That way you can watch the second and drop a loop of the lead rope to haul a pack if your second is toting a load. Run the fourth up to the big grass ledge (still not a very long pitch), and then take it to the top on the fifth. Flows really well this way. Jun 27, 2013
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.10a
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.10a
This route was a good climb. However, I think the crux pitch is a little harder than 10a... closer to 10b in my opinion. Overall the pitches are pretty great save for the 4th pitch- very dirty and the pro is somewhat sparse. Jul 22, 2012
superjosh  
 
This route was a blast! Thanks, Ben. Nuff respek to the Tan Buttresses. Jul 17, 2011