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Bolting The Molting
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2.4 from 22
votes
Routes in Area 37
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A Walk in the Park S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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A37 Crack Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bag of Sand S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Balance of Power, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Bizarre Ritual S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bolting The Molting S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Branching Out S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Cherry Pickin' S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Cyclic Loader S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Ergo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Fatigue (Extension to Cyclic Loader) S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Frosted Mini Wheats S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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InBetween, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Infection Protection S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Keardo S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Leprosy S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Los Crozzlepusses S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Los Gastones S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Mechanical Animal S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Mini Wheats S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Papperoni S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Paradox of Choice S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Rain Dogs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Receiving Handshake S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Ritual Roof S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sending Data S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Stewed Prune S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Sweven Arete S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
| Type: | Sport, 34 ft (10 m) |
| GPS: | 35.8162, -106.5185 |
| FA: | Hagen Telg and Jason Halladay |
| Page Views: | 2,018 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | hagne on Jul 11, 2012 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
Description
Call it molting, ecdysis, shedding or sloughing, the rock on this wall changes form more often than any other wall in the Jemez. In its current stage, after some agressive cleaning recently, the line offers up a bouldery start leading to a pumpy finish with some cool movement in the middle.
The rating on this one is highly dependent on the climber's stature. Shorter and much taller climbers will find the 12a rating spot on while those in the sweet spot of height will find it easier for the grade.
Start off in the cupped hole and boulder up to a good crimp and the first clip. Stay tight and crank through the crux to the route's best hold and the second bolt. Some side to side climbing with cool moves leads past the third bolt and to the fourth clip, a fixed chain. Hang on through bigger holds out left past the bulge above and the anchors.
The fixed chain on the fourth bolt not only allows for an easier clip but primarily serves to keep the lowering climber out of the way of the two young aspens growing at the base of the route. The lowering climber should clip his/her rope through this fixed chain while lowering to stay closer to the wall and keep the aspens from getting beat up.
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