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Routes in Area 37

A Walk in the Park S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
A37 Crack Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bag of Sand S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Balance of Power, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bizarre Ritual S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bolting The Molting S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Branching Out S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cherry Pickin' S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cyclic Loader S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ergo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fatigue S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Frosted Mini Wheats S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
InBetween, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Keardo S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Leprosy S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Los Gastones S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mini Wheats S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Papperoni S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Paradox of Choice S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rain Dogs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sending Data S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stewed Prune S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 34 ft
FA: Hagen Telg and Jason Halladay
Page Views: 885 total · 13/month
Shared By: hagne on Jul 11, 2012
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Call it molting, ecdysis, shedding or sloughing, the rock on this wall changes form more often than any other wall in the Jemez. In its current stage, after some agressive cleaning recently, the line offers up a bouldery start leading to a pumpy finish with some cool movement in the middle.

The rating on this one is highly dependent on the climber's stature. Shorter and much taller climbers will find the 12a rating spot on while those in the sweet spot of height will find it easier for the grade.

Start off in the cupped hole and boulder up to a good crimp and the first clip. Stay tight and crank through the crux to the route's best hold and the second bolt. Some side to side climbing with cool moves leads past the third bolt and to the fourth clip, a fixed chain. Hang on through bigger holds out left past the bulge above and the anchors.

The fixed chain on the fourth bolt not only allows for an easier clip but primarily serves to keep the lowering climber out of the way of the two young aspens growing at the base of the route. The lowering climber should clip his/her rope through this fixed chain while lowering to stay closer to the wall and keep the aspens from getting beat up.

Protection

Four bolts to a bolts/chain anchor with lowering biners.

Location

Starts 5 feet to the right of The Balance of Power.

Photos

Heath Bailey  
 
Cool route with a fun and bouldery beginning, not unlike the nature of the 5.11 routes to its left. Definitely a nice addition to the cliff. Apr 1, 2013
skelldify
  5.12-
skelldify  
  5.12-
I actually thought this was a good route. The start is vicious! Then hero climbing for 20 feet to the anchors! Mar 30, 2015

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