Type: Sport
FA: Scott Cherry and Chris Gill
Page Views: 373 total · 2/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Aug 9, 2006
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Description

Moderate climbing leads to a difficult mantle move, leading to a blank face then a thin finger crack at the finish.

In June 2017 two widowmaker trees leaning against the cliff were removed. In the removal, one of the trees knocked off the large, featured plate down low on this route.

Protection

Bolts to a two bolt anchor.

Photos

Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.11a
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.11a
The mantle move is pretty awkward but also pretty cool once you figure it out. The upper crack is thin but offers a nice finger lock down low. Fun stuff! Jun 7, 2007
Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
  5.11a/b
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
  5.11a/b
That mantle is absolutely bizarre and hard for me but it really is a fun, unique sequence. The top finger crack is really cool too and is the crux for some (shorter) people, but to me it seemed noticeably easier than the mantle.

The route name is a bit of a misnomer: 5.11- is more like it. Jun 24, 2009
skelldify  
 
Have any shorter people figured out beta for the mantle? My wife swears it's impossible at 5'8" and -1 ape index...

Heh, at 6'1", +4.5 I've done it two different ways. :-) Sep 4, 2014
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.11a
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.11a
Hey skelldify, my wife, at 5'5" with a -1 AI has beta for it that works. Problem is, we climb the route only a few times a year and have to relearn the beta each time. I tend to think it's a bit easier for short folks, actually. But 6'1" with a +4.5 AI would be nice too! Sep 5, 2014