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Routes in Area 37

A Walk in the Park S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
A37 Crack Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bag of Sand S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Balance of Power, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bizarre Ritual S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bolting The Molting S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Branching Out S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cherry Pickin' S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cyclic Loader S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ergo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fatigue S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Frosted Mini Wheats S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
InBetween, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Keardo S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Leprosy S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Los Gastones S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mini Wheats S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Papperoni S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Paradox of Choice S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rain Dogs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sending Data S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stewed Prune S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Sport
FA: Scott Cherry and Chris Gill
Page Views: 283 total, 2/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Aug 9, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Moderate climbing leads to a difficult mantle move, leading to a blank face then a thin finger crack at the finish.

In June 2017 two widowmaker trees leaning against the cliff were removed. In the removal, one of the trees knocked off the large, featured plate down low on this route.

Protection

Bolts to a two bolt anchor.

Photos

Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.11a
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.11a
Hey skelldify, my wife, at 5'5" with a -1 AI has beta for it that works. Problem is, we climb the route only a few times a year and have to relearn the beta each time. I tend to think it's a bit easier for short folks, actually. But 6'1" with a +4.5 AI would be nice too! Sep 5, 2014
skelldify  
 
Have any shorter people figured out beta for the mantle? My wife swears it's impossible at 5'8" and -1 ape index...

Heh, at 6'1", +4.5 I've done it two different ways. :-) Sep 4, 2014
Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
  5.11a/b
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
  5.11a/b
That mantle is absolutely bizarre and hard for me but it really is a fun, unique sequence. The top finger crack is really cool too and is the crux for some (shorter) people, but to me it seemed noticeably easier than the mantle.

The route name is a bit of a misnomer: 5.11- is more like it. Jun 24, 2009
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.11a
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.11a
The mantle move is pretty awkward but also pretty cool once you figure it out. The upper crack is thin but offers a nice finger lock down low. Fun stuff! Jun 7, 2007