Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Joe Cowan, Walt Whetham, Jason Halladay
Page Views: 547 total · 10/month
Shared By: Walt Whetham on Jul 31, 2014
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


11 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Start on top of the rightmost platform that definitely was not built by the Civilian Conservation Corporation. Pull a couple of moves with good hands, but not the best feet. Clip the fixed wire draw that was included to assist with cleaning the route. Easy routes can have fixed draws too. Grab the muddy hueco jug and with your best Tom Waits imitation, sing "Inside a broken clock, splashing the wine, with all the Rain Dogs." Work your way up on good holds covered with lichen and moss and instead of complaining, brush the holds off. Make your way to the last bolt where the jugs run out. Pull to the anchors on thin hands, but good feet. Celebrate with beer and blueberry pie.

Location

Just a few feet right and up the hill from the crack route.

Protection

One fixed draw, plus 4 bolts to lowering anchors.

Photos

- No Photos -
John Klumpp  
 
This is a great climb - highly recommended. In my opinion the perma-draw on the first bolt makes the start a lot safer. The crux is between the first and second bolt, but it's not hard once you figure out the beta. Still, maybe not good for leaders whose limit is 5.8. The base is really steep and slippery, and it's probably a good idea for belayer to tie in to a tree. The moves are a lot of fun and the rock was solid. You also get a great view around the corner. The 'biners at the top are still OK but starting to look a little bit worn, so people should be aware of that in the future and might want to consider rapping off rather than be lowered. Jun 24, 2015
Dylan Boyle
Los Alamos, NM
  5.8 PG13
Dylan Boyle   Los Alamos, NM
  5.8 PG13
Awkward moves off the ground to the second bolt. Not a good climb for 5.8 climbers unless you stick clip the first bolt, could be a nasty fall before the first bolt. Rock was lichen covered and rock a bit crumbly, minor amount of exposure on the arete made it worth it. Apr 2, 2018