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Routes in Area 37

A Walk in the Park S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
A37 Crack Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bag of Sand S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Balance of Power, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bizarre Ritual S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bolting The Molting S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Branching Out S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cherry Pickin' S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cyclic Loader S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ergo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fatigue S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Frosted Mini Wheats S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
InBetween, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Keardo S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Leprosy S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Los Gastones S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mini Wheats S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Papperoni S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Paradox of Choice S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rain Dogs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sending Data S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stewed Prune S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: James Hunter, 2006
Page Views: 139 total · 1/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on May 12, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

This fun climb is on par with Leprosy with harder individual moves but not as sustained. Very enjoyable moves on cool holds if you can overlook the difficult start.

Pull off the ground with extreme difficulty, using a bad 2 finger pocket and a pinch to obtain a good hold several feet above. Head up on slopers to obtain a good shake on a horn below the roof. Pull the roof on good holds and clip the anchors.

Location

The second route right of Leprosy (about 10 feet right of Leprosy.)

Protection

5 bolts to anchors. Stickclip or spotter recommended for the difficult start.

Photos

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J J
Edgewood, NM
J J   Edgewood, NM
The 2 D biners up top are pretty badly worn. I had a single oval I replaced on the left side and if I'm up there again any time soon I'll put up another oval on the right, but it would be nice if someone could take up another oval for the right side. I just put both D's on the right. Aug 23, 2015
This would be much more fun if the first bolt had been placed for clipping on lead rather than for stick clipping. I found the hardest "move" to be clipping the first bolt off the two handed sloper. The bolt is way right and off the climbing line. I know its old fashioned, but sometimes people actually climb up and clip the first few bolts. Sep 2, 2014

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