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Routes in Area 37

A Walk in the Park S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
A37 Crack Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bag of Sand S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Balance of Power, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bizarre Ritual S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bolting The Molting S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Branching Out S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cherry Pickin' S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cyclic Loader S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ergo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fatigue S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Frosted Mini Wheats S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
InBetween, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Keardo S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Leprosy S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Los Gastones S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mini Wheats S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Papperoni S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Paradox of Choice S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rain Dogs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sending Data S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stewed Prune S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Sport
FA: Scott Cherry and Chris Gill
Page Views: 1,180 total, 9/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Aug 8, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Description

A short but nice slabby route at the far left side of the crag. Crux is from the middle to the top.

Protection

3 bolts to anchors.

Photos

Devin Shunk
  5.10b
Devin Shunk  
  5.10b
This is a strangely bolted route. The first bolt is 12 - 13 feet off the deck. Not a fun fall, I would imagine. Then, the next two bolts are within 5 - 6 feet. Why not just lower the first bolt? There are a couple of good stances to clip from lower.

For this climb, it is kind of moot, I guess. You can protect the lower part with the crack to the left if you want. But I see these high first bolts often (more up in different climbing areas up north). I just don't get it. Let's make the first part risky, then protect the hell out of the middle section? Personally, I would rather take a longer whip up higher than take a chance of decking.

I guess in the end it just comes down to me being a wuss.... Jun 23, 2010
Jason Young
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10a
Jason Young   Los Alamos, NM
  5.10a
After stink-bugging your ass up this route, why stop there. Lower down and top-rope the short narrow slab to the left of it. This is a dirty, thin, vegetated contrivance, but really fun.......if you're into that sort of thing. Avoid the crack to the right and the bushes to the left for a greater challenge (10+?). Aug 6, 2009