Type: Sport, 46 ft
FA: Allison Fritz, Minesh Bacrania, Jason Halladay (July 2007)
Page Views: 1,661 total · 12/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Aug 5, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


27 Opinions

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Description

A crux comes off the ground when you overcome the small bulge in the black, lichen-covered rock to positive flakes up past the third bolt. The flakes are thin and possibly dubious. Use your judgment and don't crank super hard if you're worried about the flake's strength.

A thin crux comes right at the fifth bolt leading to fun, juggy climbing past two more bolts to the anchors.
While leading keep an eye on the rope between bolts 2 and 3 so it doesn't go behind the large flake and cause unnecessary rope drag.

The route name is derived from the text that is displayed on-screen when one submits a object to MountainProject.com. Members of the FA party spend a significant amount of time on said website.

Location

This is the route just left of Bizarre Ritual. and to the right of Branching Out.

Protection

Seven two-tone painted bolts to Fixe Sport Anchors.

Photos

Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
  5.9
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
  5.9
Fun route. I thought the crux was off the ground though... Jul 13, 2008
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.9
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.9
Hey Daniel, I was back up there recently and would agree with your comment. There used to be a nice block near the start that made for a good foothold but it's now gone and the start is harder. Jul 27, 2008
Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
  5.9
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
  5.9
Ok that's what I figured; there's an obvious scar in the rock where it looks like a huge hold came loose. The start feels a little harder than anything on 'Stewed Prune'. I really like the second half of the climb - it's like 'Bizarre Ritual' lite. Dec 23, 2008
Arthur Sullivan
Albuquerque,NM
5.9
Arthur Sullivan   Albuquerque,NM
5.9
Still pretty loose. I had to move pretty quickly to avoid getting beaned by a large hold that came off last time I was there. The start may have been 5.8 at one point, but its solid 5.9 moves off the ground now. Mar 22, 2009
Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
 
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
 
Funny, a hold broke off as I was climbing past the second bolt today and it cranked me right in the eyebrow - good gusher, cool pics, and blood on the helmet strap (not gonna wash that off!) Mar 22, 2009
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.9
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.9
Thanks for cleaning it up a bit more, Jason. :-) Mar 22, 2009
Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
  5.9
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
  5.9
This route gets harder every time I get on it. Stuff keeps coming off the start, making it increasingly desperate. I guess it is just the nature of the routes here. Jul 7, 2009
Minesh Bacrania  
  5.9
Yeah, it USED to be an enjoyable 5.8, way back in summer 2007. The 5.9(+?) move at the bottom kind of ruins the character of the route. I guess that's A37 for you. Aug 11, 2009
David MacKenzie
Albuquerque
David MacKenzie   Albuquerque
This route was clean as a whistle as of 7/13/2012. Clipping the second bolt with ground fall potential was the crux. Above that, I didn't think there was a single 5.9 move. The flakes down low (we called them the corn flakes) are certainly semi-detatched, but they felt incredibly solid to us. Jul 15, 2013
Dylan Boyle
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10a
Dylan Boyle   Los Alamos, NM
  5.10a
Fun route. Moves at the beginning are well protected with an early bolt. Pretty solid 5.9 if not 10a in the beginning. Rest of the climb is maybe 5.8 Apr 2, 2018