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Routes in Area 37

A Walk in the Park S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
A37 Crack Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bag of Sand S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Balance of Power, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bizarre Ritual S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bolting The Molting S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Branching Out S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cherry Pickin' S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cyclic Loader S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ergo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fatigue S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Frosted Mini Wheats S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
InBetween, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Keardo S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Leprosy S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Los Gastones S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mini Wheats S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Papperoni S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Paradox of Choice S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rain Dogs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sending Data S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stewed Prune S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Sport
FA: Hagen Telg, Jason Halladay
Page Views: 86 total, 1/month
Shared By: hagne on Nov 12, 2011
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Although this climb might appear squeezed into the gap between Los Gastones and Branching Out it offers a mostly-independent line of mainly 11sh climbing. The route is named after a not very positive but extremely ergonomic left-hand hold just before the crux at the bulge. After the crux the climb shares the diagonal roof seam of Branching Out for a couple moves but continues up the seam to left until its end. From there the line takes a more or less obvious way to shared anchors with Branching Out. However, since the top section after the diagonal roof seam and bulge is not that obvious and the climbing not that exciting there is a separate anchor for this route at the end of the roof/bulge leaving the top section to those who can't get enough and may want to add some additional, but slightly contrived, climbing to the Branching Out anchors.

Protection

Six bolts to its own anchor. For more contrived climbing, continue past the anchors, past another bolt, and to the anchors of Branching Out.

Photos

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Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.12a
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.12a
The contrived 5.12- crux can be avoided by going right at the bulge, as George suggests, to make a 5.11-ish line. But if you've done everything else at A37 (and the other Jemez areas are closed!) and you're looking for a new challenge, stay straight through the crux bulge for some interesting 5.12- climbing. Jul 24, 2013
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.11b
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.11b
The difficulty of the crux can be greatly reduced by moving right to the "Branching Out" corner for a few moves which seems a reasonable way to go, but definitely a bit off the bolt line; I'd put it in the 5.11- range. Jul 20, 2013