Type: Sport
FA: Hagen Telg, Jason Halladay
Page Views: 124 total · 1/month
Shared By: hagne on Nov 12, 2011
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

A mostly-independent line of mainly 11-ish climbing with a tougher crux. The route is named after a not very positive but extremely ergonomic left-hand hold just before the crux at the bulge. After the crux the climb shares the diagonal roof seam of Branching Out for a couple moves but continues up the seam to left until its end. From there the line takes a more or less obvious way to shared anchors with Branching Out. However, since the top section after the diagonal roof seam and bulge is not that obvious and the climbing not that exciting there is a separate anchor for this route at the end of the roof/bulge leaving the top section to those who can't get enough and may want to add some additional, but slightly contrived, climbing to the Branching Out anchors.

Protection

Six bolts to its own anchor. For more climbing, continue past the anchors, past another bolt, and to the anchors of Branching Out.

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George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.11b
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.11b
The difficulty of the crux can be greatly reduced by moving right to the "Branching Out" corner for a few moves which seems a reasonable way to go, but definitely a bit off the bolt line; I'd put it in the 5.11- range. Jul 20, 2013
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.12a
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.12a
The contrived 5.12- crux can be avoided by going right at the bulge, as George suggests, to make a 5.11-ish line. But if you've done everything else at A37 (and the other Jemez areas are closed!) and you're looking for a new challenge, stay straight through the crux bulge for some interesting 5.12- climbing. Jul 24, 2013