Type: Sport, 33 ft
FA: Scott Cherry
Page Views: 3,151 total · 21/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Aug 9, 2006
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


45 Opinions

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Description

Beautiful, steeply overhung route at the far left side of the crag. Not as far left as Frosted Mini Wheats, or Mini Wheats, however. Sustained! Crux is near the top of the route.

Protection

5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.11c
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.11c
I consider this the best route at Area 37. Steep and sustained with good holds when you need them. Some slopers down low to positive but steep holds higher up. The rock quality overall, though, is a bit dubious so climb it soon before all the good holds come off.

The anchor setup is funky. Two cold shuts with one higher than the other. I hope to take some links up there soon to make it easier to equalize and clean up there. May 15, 2007
Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
  5.11c
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
  5.11c
Have to agree with Jason--Leprosy is a great route and is my favorite at Area 37. There are places where the rock can be brittle, so make sure your belayer wears a helmet. Even though the routes are for the most part pretty clean, I have seen holds break off--it's just the nature of the rock there. Jun 14, 2007
Scott Beguin
Santa Fe, NM
  5.11a
Scott Beguin   Santa Fe, NM
  5.11a
This is a Good route at Mile Marker 37 but I only give it two stars because of rock quality. It is continuous at the 11a grade. The bolts are rusting as this gets the weather. Jul 10, 2007
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.11c
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.11c
Thanks to a hardware donation from NMCRAG, the anchors on this route were replaced in July 2007 with quality Fixe Sport Anchors. Jul 24, 2007
skelldify  
 
BURL! Mar 18, 2015
Michael Erickson
Los Alamos, NM
  5.11b/c
Michael Erickson   Los Alamos, NM
  5.11b/c
I found this to be a really fun route for the length. Start to bolt 3 is a bit technical, but it opens up to some fun big moves up top. Nice movement. Definitely a must do if your in the area (37). Oct 5, 2018