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Routes in Area 37

A Walk in the Park S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
A37 Crack Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bag of Sand S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Balance of Power, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bizarre Ritual S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bolting The Molting S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Branching Out S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cherry Pickin' S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cyclic Loader S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ergo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fatigue S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Frosted Mini Wheats S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
InBetween, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Keardo S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Leprosy S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Los Gastones S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mini Wheats S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Papperoni S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Paradox of Choice S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rain Dogs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sending Data S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stewed Prune S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: James Hunter, 2007
Page Views: 118 total, 1/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on May 12, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

While this climb has good moves, the rock quality really sucks. For the first half of the route every foot and handhold felt crumbly, and the top half has a lot of lichen. However, this has the potential to be a good route if it cleans up some.

Once again pull of the ground with difficulty, using some variety of the slopy "knobs" to get on the wall. Continue up on progressively better holds to a nice rest at the half way point. Rest well as some trickiness awaits passing the next bolt (fifth). Beta alert (it may be possible to skip this section using a lichen covered jug far to the left, that is difficult to see from below) Pull over the bulge and set up for the final steep moves to the anchor. There is a final bolt here that seems out of place and difficult to clip, (the clip would be as harder than making the one more move the anchor) so I skipped it.

Location

Starts about 8 feet right of A Walk in the Park. Third route to the right of Leprosy.

Protection

7 bolts to anchors

Photos

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George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.11c
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.11c
IMO, by now, this climb has cleaned up nicely (but like everything at A37, expect some grit and the outer layer to flake off), and it's excellent climbing- almost as good as Leprosy or any of the other 11s at A37.
The start is not as difficult as the 11+ to its left (A Walk in the Park), and, unlike A Walk.., this climb has better stances and holds to clip from for the first 2 bolts, so I like it more. Jul 5, 2009
Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
 
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
 
I agree with Brian, the climbing on this route was really fun, but the rock was very chossy. More traffic may clean it up a bit, or it may just continue to flake off. Certainly more fun and sustained than its neighbor to the left A Walk in the Park Sep 10, 2008
Brian Quiter
Oakland, CA
 
Brian Quiter   Oakland, CA
 
Yeah the rock is chossy throughout, I bet it will clean up if more people climbed it - I certainly did my share, but the climbing is FUN!!!!

3 stars climbing + 0 stars rock quality = 1.5 stars. I round up because the rock will probably get better with time. Sep 9, 2008