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Gateway Drug
5.12a/b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2.9 from 10
votes
Routes in Booty Wall Area
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36 Yarrgs T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Back That Ass Up Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Captain Hook T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Crystal Left T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Death of a Monarch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Gateway Drug T,S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Heisenberg T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Pirate Treasure S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Scallywags T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Straight to Rehab S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Under Pressure S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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White Lines T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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X Marks the Spot S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
| Type: | Trad, Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 40.579, -111.70277 |
| FA: | Mike Perkins, Clay Watson |
| Page Views: | 2,235 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | tenesmus on Jul 1, 2012 |
| Admins: | Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
This is directly below White Lines and although not as committing, it gets you into the feel of steep granite climbing, making an excellent warm up for projects above.
From the little belay ledge/anchor, scramble up to the short, steep and very juggy mini-hedral trending up and right with jugs that are supplemented by slopers and crimps. Make your way to the teeny little pine tree, plug in a piece, then cut back left on the super fun sloper rail that turns the lip to the chains.
Location
This is in the steep roof between SPF 50 and Skallywaggers. There is a two bolt belay station on a nice little flat ledge immediately below the pitch.
1. Approach via the 5.7x start to Death of a Monarch, looking out for the small ledge with a 2-bolt bolted belay. Someone added a giant, old-school steel biner to one side.
2. Climb the first pitch of SPF 50, then traverse down and right about 20' to the two bolt belay station.
3. Start 20-30' left of the first pitch of SPF 50 and solo the 5.2 ramp to the anchor of of the first pitch of SPF 50, then traverse down to the belay.
Protection
Two cams (anything from .3 to .75 camalot) get you to first the bolt, clip one more, then a #1 camalot with a long runner for the middle piece and a permadraw for the final bolt. 2-bolt/chain anchor.
Don't be confused by the bolt with the permadraw up and left of the crack. It's an alternate start for Straight to Rehab.
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