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Routes in Booty Wall Area

36 Yarrgs T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Back That Ass Up Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Captain Hook T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Crystal Left T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Death of a Monarch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Gateway Drug T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heisenberg T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pirate Treasure S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Scallywaggers T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Straight to Rehab S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Under Pressure S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
White Lines T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
X Marks the Spot S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, 50 ft
FA: Mike Perkins, Clay Watson
Page Views: 1,095 total, 17/month
Shared By: tenesmus on Jul 1, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This is directly below White Lines and although not as committing, it gets you into the feel of steep granite climbing, making an excellent warm up for projects above.


From the little belay ledge, scramble up to the short, steep and very juggy mini-hedral trending up and right with jugs, supplemented by slopers and crimps. Make your way to the teeny little pine tree and then cut back left on the super fun sloper rail that turns the lip to the chains.

Location

Right of SPF 50 by 20' is Death of a Monarch. Scramble up the 5.7x terrain to a small flat ledge about 10' below the steep mini-hedral/crack that starts the climb. We added a 2-bolt belay on that ledge. You can see the bolts from the ground in the darkest part of the black streak.

Protection

yellow, orange, red-sized TCU's or .3, .4 and .5 camalots to get you to first the bolts, then a #1 camalot with a long runner for the middle piece and one more draw for the final bolt. 2-bolt/chain anchor.
greg t
Chevy, Silverado
greg t   Chevy, Silverado
Long slings for the anchors will greatly reduce the drag for the belayer for the 2nd, or if setting up a TR, which is really easy. about 55 inches from the chains to the edge. Jun 26, 2013