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Routes in Booty Wall Area

36 Yarrgs T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Back That Ass Up Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Captain Hook T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Crystal Left T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Death of a Monarch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Gateway Drug T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heisenberg T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pirate Treasure S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Scallywaggers T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Straight to Rehab S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Under Pressure S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
White Lines T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
X Marks the Spot S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bob Gray, Luke Douglas
Page Views: 2,854 total, 26/month
Shared By: BobGray on Nov 9, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

First Pitch starts in a seam like corner, look for one bolt leading to a 2 bolt anchor, the second pitch crack is visible from the start, Second pitch is the obvious crack leading to anchors. Bring a 70m rope. Originally 5.8x. (might still be....)

Location

Booty wall area

Protection

Standard Little Cottonwood Rack up to #3.5 or #4 camalot

Photos

Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
The 5.8 to the left with (FYB or something) two bolts just off the ground can be used as an alternate first pitch. The crux is getting to the 2nd bolt. Sep 12, 2017
BobGray
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
BobGray   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Better eat your Wheaties before attempting this one! I know how it is to take a very big fall on easy terrain, if someone wants to add a bolt or two I'm ok with it, but I am not going to add anything to the route. Jan 17, 2012
Peter and Mark,
Glad you got out to explore.
Some will consider most if not all of the routes in Tanners to be at least R rated. The goal here was to follow a more old school philosophy in route developement. Climbs were not protected for a specific level of leader based on their rating.
Have fun.
Luke
Sep 27, 2011
PeterSLenz
Salt Lake City
  5.8 X
PeterSLenz   Salt Lake City
  5.8 X
I climbed the route with Mark Shah yesterday, and echo his remarks. The first ascenders deserve credit for spying the excellent upper crack and the slabs above it, which provide spectacular and fun climbing. (The crack is easier than it looks. A bit like "Touchup," but easier and better!)
Unfortunately (in my view, at least) both pitches have sections where there is no real protection, the rock is dirty and a bit slick, and there is real potential for a ground fall ending in death.
This is NOT a 5.8 route for a 5.8 leader. I would still rate it "X." Because the crack at the top is so nice, I hope the first ascentionists will consider adding enough bolts to at least keep people off the ground.
Respectfully Submitted,
Peter Lenz
Sep 27, 2011
Mark Shah
  5.8- R
Mark Shah  
  5.8- R
The 2nd half of the 2nd pitch is indeed awesome (an easier and more enjoyable version of "Touch Up"), but keep in mind that to get there one has to travel through a lot of unprotectable, though easy terrain. For me, this route felt a bit too loose, with too little protection, to be worth a second trip up it. Sep 26, 2011
Stevie Nacho   Utah
Hey Luke!
I agree that this route is really good. I think I snapped that photo of John Star. I don't think you should add any bolts, this route protects where you need it too. I didn't feel it to be dangerous, so you should keep it in its original state.

Happy Times!

TDA Nov 10, 2008
tenesmus  
 
that's hilarious! Fun route up there. Nov 10, 2008
zoso
 
zoso  
 
What a fantastic 5.8 lead out of that dihedral/roof. I give that 2.5/3 stars. Nov 10, 2008
This climb was given the X rating because if you fall the gear would not hold, you will slam into the talus and in all likelyhood die.
This climb went down with zero bolts and some pro that took a long prayer session just to stay in the rock. It travels through some really good rock with no protection opportunities for about 50'and then breaks left on a ramp which parallels the roof. Protection is not a problem on this section of the climb. Move up and toward the second pitch crack at the break in the roof.We thought the crack would be some crippler and were super surprised to find the sweetness we did.
Bob and I are in the process of adding another bolt. So this climb will stay exciting but will become much more comfortable for the 5.8 leader.This climb is at LEAST R right now.
  • On a side note when I do a climb now days it is for my own selfish ass. I also doubt that any of the climbers that I look to for examples, tradition, and inspiration (whether Joe Brown or Brian Smoot or George Lowe) were taking me and my pansy ass into consideration when they were/are out establishing lines. In fact you should see the shit stains in my underoos. Nahhh.... I am positive more and more each day that the tradition I hope to follow involves more fear, more sacking up, and fewer bolts. Right after the first post attacking George Lowe for not considering the 5.8 leader I will re-consider my current philosophy.
Nov 10, 2008
tenesmus  
 
The second pitch is pretty cool for the 5.8 leader. To finish it, you can either go straight up from the dihedral or traverse right across the slab above the roof with decent pro for 20-30 feet to another 2 bolt/chain anchor. If you finish this way you can rap directly over a roof to a second set of anchors with one more rap getting you to the first pitch anchors.

I'd give this another star if the first pitch wasn't so runnout for the 5.8 leader. If it had 2 more bolts it'd be fine but my friends were freaked out the way it is. Nov 10, 2008
Ryan Brough
Arvada, Colorado
Ryan Brough   Arvada, Colorado
What made it X rated? Sounds like you're keeping a good story from us. Nov 9, 2008