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Routes in Booty Wall Area

36 Yarrgs T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Back That Ass Up Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Captain Hook T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Crystal Left T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Death of a Monarch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Gateway Drug T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heisenberg T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pirate Treasure S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Scallywaggers T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Straight to Rehab S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Under Pressure S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
White Lines T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
X Marks the Spot S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Mike Perkins, Clay Watson, Drew Bedford
Page Views: 160 total, 11/month
Shared By: tenesmus on Sep 12, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This is a really fun bolder problem. We kept lowering off it on the way down from White Lines/Heisenberg and decided it might make a good warmup for the steep climbing above. At first we thought it would be much harder but key beta makes a fun little ditty. If this were on a boulder down in the canyon it would be a super popular V4.

Please note that choss guards the start! We cleaned many of the giant blocks but couldn't budge others. We did the best we could and it is highly recommended you wear a helmet and tread lightly. If you feel you can clean it better, please have at it. Just know that there is one block that you stand on at the beginning that really helps to get started. I jumped on it and all that. Might be better to just tiptoe around it and let it be because once you're on the route, its clean as a whistle.

I gave it 2 stars but would give 3 if it were longer and the scramble to the climbing were easier to clean.

Location

Approach via the 5.7 start to Death of a Monarch, looking out for the newly bolted belay anchor below the black streaked roof. Climb straight up and aim at the left bolt line.

Protection

3 bolts. Shares the anchor with Gateway Drugs.

Photos

tenesmus  
 
We were thinking that maybe it would be nice to stick clip the second bolt but didn't need it. If you need the second clipped to work the problem, just go in direct to the first bolt and unless you're an 11 year-old (ie, "fun-sized"; ie, "petite"; ie, "have no reason to live"), you should be able to reach up and pre-clip. Sep 12, 2016