Type: Trad, Sport, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: Mike Perkins, Clay Watson
Page Views: 6,935 total · 71/month
Shared By: tenesmus on Oct 25, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

The Uncertainty Principle. This is the original line I aided on this cliff and what drew us up there to do White Lines. Follow the steep crack system of White Lines to the corner at the third bolt. Then keep trending right 4 more bolts up through a crux with a rose move, then a dyno, then top out at the apex of the roof.

Location

5th class or climb one of the routes in the vicinity of SPF 50, then veer right in the notch just above the first pitch, heading for the biggest roof you see. This is also directly above Gateway Drugs, which might be a decent warmup to the steepness.

The first 30 feet are shared with White Lines. There is a bolt right at the bottom of the line, then gear, then a bolt on the face, then a little alcove/corner with a bolt. This is where W.L. splits up and left through the crack in the roof. Heisenburg stays on the steeper features for four bolts and finishes on the apex of the steepest wall.

Protection

.4 to #2 camalot, draws. 

I'm a little freaked out that people sometimes lead this all on gear. Please know that the only reason I added the bolts is that my body weight pulled out some of the blocks that create those potential gear placements. 

Rappel: The best way to rap down from the top of both Heisenberg and White Lines is to go off the top of the last two bolts on either climb (ie off the two fixed draws of Heisenberg). It's pretty simple but takes a few steps.

     1) Have the last climber clean the gear up to the last bolts. 

     2) Lower that person down to the anchor of Gateway Drugs/Straight to Rehab, have them schlepp in and stay tied in to the rope

     3) Gather your belongings from the base of White Lines/Heisenberg and get ready to rap your end of the line.

     4) The still-tied-in climber at Gateway Drugs anchor acts as ballast as the other climber raps a single down to join them. 

     5) One 35m rap to the ground.

     6) Think about taking a lap on Gateway Drugs or Straight to Rehab because they are also super fun.

Photos