Type: Trad, Sport, 90 ft
FA: Mike Perkins, Clay Watson
Page Views: 5,248 total · 76/month
Shared By: tenesmus on Oct 25, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

The Uncertainty Principle. This is the original line I aided on this cliff and what drew us up there to do White Lines. Follow the steep crack system of White Lines to the corner at the third bolt. Then keep trending right 4 more bolts up through a crux with a rose move, then a dyno, then top out at the apex of the roof.

Location

5th class or climb one of the routes in the vicinity of SPF 50, then veer right in the notch just above the first pitch, heading for the biggest roof you see. This is also directly above Gateway Drugs, which might be a decent warmup to the steepness.
The first 30 feet are shared with White Lines. To be clear, there is a bolt right at the bottom of the line, then gear, then a bolt on the face, then a little alcove/corner with a bolt. This is where W.L. splits up and left through the crack in the roof. Heisenburg stays on the steeper features for four bolts and finishes on the apex of the steepest wall.

Protection

.4 to #2 camalot, draws.

The best way to rap down from the top of both Heisenberg and White Lines is to go off the top of the last two bolts on either climb (ie off the two fixed draws of Heisenberg). 1) Have the last person on the route clean it up to the bolts. 2) Lower that person down to the anchor of Gateway Drugs and have them anchor themselves in. 3) Clean the stuff at the base of WL/Heis. 4) Use the climber at Gateway for ballast as you rap a single down to the same anchor. 5) One 35m rap to the ground.

Photos