Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft
FA: Clay Watson, Mike Perkins, Brian Smoot
Page Views: 5,028 total · 56/month
Shared By: tenesmus on Sep 17, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

6 Opinions

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


Originally covered in white granitic rime, this one stayed in my head for a long, long time. Tyler Phillips helped me aid the first half and the line out right, which makes for excellent steep aid climbing. We broke a lot of holds, took some huge whippers, blew out some blocks and destroyed a few pitons. In the end, adding a few bolts seemed prudent.

Many partners helped me clean this with varying degrees of enthusiasm for getting dust in their eyes, nose and lungs. However, Mike Perkins had the best beta which he can't remember.

This is a fun line with very clean falls and bomber gear. Super huge jugs for most of it with two cruxes at the end that feel v4-ish.


This climbs the steep crack system through the roofs 50 feet to the right of Death of a Monarch.


yellow tcu through #2 camalot with doubles in orange and .75 camalot, long runners and a few quickdraws for the piton and bolts.
Edit to say I removed the piton and added a bolt 7/24/13. The knife blade piton was nice and hard to get out but also nice and rusty all along the blade. I think its been in place for about 4 years now.

The best way to rap down from the top of both Heisenberg and White Lines is to go off the top of the last two bolts on either climb (ie off the two fixed draws of Heisenberg). 1) Have the last person on the route clean it up to the bolts. 2) Lower that person down to the anchor of Gateway Drugs and have them anchor themselves in. 3) Clean the stuff at the base of WL/Heis. 4) Use the climber at Gateway for ballast as you rap a single down to the same anchor. 5) One 35m rap to the ground.
Don't let Tens description of the choss deter you. This route is completely clean and awesome. I'm sad he didn't name it "Leaf Blower" as he actually took one up to help with the cleaning.
Spectacular route. Get it on! Sep 17, 2011
bheller   SL UT
Congratulations Clay! You really earned this one! What a long time coming this ascent was- proud of your determination and vision. Great pictures from Mr. Hyer as well! Sep 23, 2011
IMO this line went from 1 star when intially worked to 4 stars = shiiton of cleaning! Pretty amazing line for LCC granite. Sep 26, 2011
and 12b to pinkpoint? Sep 13, 2012
Likely, not. :) I sure as hell tried a bunch but never could send it that way. No doubt it made it feel a hell of a lot less stressful and more like a sport climb to work it on pinkpoint. But started placing and cleaning the gear when we got serious about sending.

Now for the Riiight Line... Sep 14, 2012
Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT
Landon McBrayer   Salt Lake City, UT
Burly. A pump from the word go with nary a rest along the way. Good gear - we used BD .4 - #1 sized pieces, doubles are nice. I advise clipping the (2nd?) bolt just before the first roof (ignoring the fact the the whole pitch is a roof) with a 24" sling. This will allow the rope to run free over said roof without getting jammed in the crack. The crux (for me) was the last 10 feet before the chains. Aug 16, 2013
kalockwood   SLC, UT
An improbable line in an amazing location. Pumpy opening moves to two unique and different boulder problems: one powerful, and one delicate.
Here's my gear rack until the first bolt, all Camalot sizes:
  • 0.4 (1x)
  • 0.5 (2x)
  • 0.75 (2x)
  • #1 (1x)

I clipped the second bolt (below the crux roof) with a draw + shoulder length sling.
The last two bolts can take normal draws.

You can use a 0.3 or 0.4 to aid through the crux roof if needed. The gear may or may not hold a fall as the crack is a bit flared. Jul 16, 2018