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Routes in Booty Wall Area

36 Yarrgs T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Back That Ass Up Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Captain Hook T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Crystal Left T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Death of a Monarch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Gateway Drug T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heisenberg T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pirate Treasure S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Scallywaggers T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Straight to Rehab S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Under Pressure S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
White Lines T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
X Marks the Spot S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Tyler Phillips & Luke Douglas & Clay Watson 07'
Page Views: 1,883 total · 16/month
Shared By: TylerPhillips on Oct 12, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


"Professor, what's another name for Pirate Treasure?" "well I think it's Booooooty-B-B-booooottttty yep thats what it is"

"Cause I'm the master blaster
Drinking up the shasta
My voice sounds sweet 'cause it has to" -Beastie Boys

This route starts on some . The 2nd bolt can seem high, just remember those jugs are good! Keep you footwork together and sequence to make the slipmer moves to a rest. Shuffle along the shelf going left, at the end are some wild sculpted chickenheads. Climb up and right using more memorable chickenheads to the anchor. WILD!

See .


The route starts at the top of the hill (which often is full of Thistle). Find a flat spot kicked in the hill for the belay.




Overhanging granite jug hauling is an uncommon thing in the Wasatch. Oct 13, 2008
Bump to get more people on this one. Grab the sloper and chuck! Jul 4, 2012
Daniel Winder
Daniel Winder  
Got a sweet handjam and high feet and skipped the sloper. Awesome pitch, slightly shitty belay. No loose rock anywhere on the route. Jul 26, 2012
John Steiger
John Steiger  
I spent at least a good 10 minutes trying to figure out how to skip the sloper; Daniel, you must have a wingspan matching LeBron’s. A really good route; kudos to the FA. By the way, what’s the line just to the right of Pirate Treasure? I’d say it's 11a, two stars (and advise taking microcams). Aug 15, 2012
greg t
Chevy, Silverado
greg t   Chevy, Silverado
Definitely a height dependent crux.. I'm 5'9".. whiff Jun 16, 2013
Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT
Landon McBrayer   Salt Lake City, UT
As others mentioned, If you're around 6' or have a decent ape index you can reach all the way to the jug from the hand jam, thus skipping the sloper. In other words, the difficulty of this climb is very much height dependent. Also, the route does not start at the top of the hill (as stated in the description). It starts 20-30 down from the top. The rust colored streak is the easiest marker. Aug 10, 2013
Charlie S
Ogden, UT
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
This is an excellent route! Very cool rock the second half.

Do your second a favor if they're weaker, and unclip/pull out the first and second QDs/bolts after the crux so they don't get pulled over into the nothingness if they fall. Sep 10, 2016

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