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Routes in Booty Wall Area

36 Yarrgs T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Back That Ass Up Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Captain Hook T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Crystal Left T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Death of a Monarch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Gateway Drug T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heisenberg T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pirate Treasure S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Scallywaggers T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Straight to Rehab S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Under Pressure S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
White Lines T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
X Marks the Spot S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Tyler Phillips & Luke Douglas & Clay Watson 07'
Page Views: 2,090 total · 17/month
Shared By: TylerPhillips on Oct 12, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

"Professor, what's another name for Pirate Treasure?" "well I think it's Booooooty-B-B-booooottttty yep thats what it is"

"Cause I'm the master blaster
Drinking up the shasta
My voice sounds sweet 'cause it has to" -Beastie Boys

This route starts on some
The snow was deep this past winter. This is in July 08 at the Booty Wall. . The 2nd bolt can seem high, just remember those jugs are good! Keep you footwork together and sequence to make the slipmer moves to a rest. Shuffle along the shelf going left, at the end are some wild sculpted chickenheads. Climb up and right using more memorable chickenheads to the anchor. WILD!

See
The Booty Wall topo with Diff'rent Strokes area showing .

Location

The route starts at the top of the hill (which often is full of Thistle). Find a flat spot kicked in the hill for the belay.

Protection

QD's

Photos

tenesmus  
 
Overhanging granite jug hauling is an uncommon thing in the Wasatch. Oct 13, 2008
tenesmus  
 
Bump to get more people on this one. Grab the sloper and chuck! Jul 4, 2012
Daniel Winder
  5.11b
Daniel Winder  
  5.11b
Got a sweet handjam and high feet and skipped the sloper. Awesome pitch, slightly shitty belay. No loose rock anywhere on the route. Jul 26, 2012
John Steiger
  5.11c
John Steiger  
  5.11c
I spent at least a good 10 minutes trying to figure out how to skip the sloper; Daniel, you must have a wingspan matching LeBron's. A really good route; kudos to the FA. Aug 15, 2012
greg t
Chevy, Silverado
greg t   Chevy, Silverado
Definitely a height dependent crux.. I'm 5'9".. whiff Jun 16, 2013
Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Landon McBrayer   Salt Lake City, UT
 
As others mentioned, If you're around 6' or have a decent ape index you can reach all the way to the jug from the hand jam, thus skipping the sloper. In other words, the difficulty of this climb is very much height dependent. Also, the route does not start at the top of the hill (as stated in the description). It starts 20-30 down from the top. The rust colored streak is the easiest marker. Aug 10, 2013
Charlie S
Ogden, UT
  5.11b
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
  5.11b
This is an excellent route! Very cool rock the second half.

Do your second a favor if they're weaker, and unclip/pull out the first and second QDs/bolts after the crux so they don't get pulled over into the nothingness if they fall. Sep 10, 2016
JOHN - A - TRON
Salt Lake City, UTAH
 
JOHN - A - TRON   Salt Lake City, UTAH
 
I was not a fan of the 6th (crux) bolt placement. Get ready to play the game JUST OUT OF REACH, when you are at the hand jam and wishing that bolt was placed 10" to right of where it is now. Seemed a little contrived to force someone to launch into the crux sequence with the bolt at their feet, when the obvious clipping stance was the hand jam. That being said, trust that it is a jug you are going for, and hope you stick the move. The fall doesn't feel so great when you miss it. Jun 10, 2018
Hahaha!!! As my dear friend M. Tea once told me..”short people got no business”. Sounds like you got short roped to me fella. Obvious clipping stance is a hand jam? Maybe a cam would do you better than dumb bolting? Glad you liked the route... Jun 10, 2018

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