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Routes in The Grendel

Academic Freedom S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beowulf S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Beyond the Pale T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Daneland S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Exit Stage Right S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Freedom Fighter S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hrunting T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Leitner Route S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Monster Mash, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mother Grendel S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pebble In The Sky S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Pierced Lip Lock S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Strong Arm Tactics S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Rick Leitner, 2003
Page Views: 639 total, 10/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jun 4, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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State Park; Fee Required. Details

Description

This is a slab route of good quality, but it seems to be the shortest route on the cliff. It will challenge those shorter than 5'10". Some such folks will argue for a 11-ish rating.

Go up and right on a ledge to clip the 1st bolt. You can back down to the ground to add a few more moves. Pull onto the slab, make a high step with your right foot, and stay in balance. Move your feet up high with small hand holds. Reach far and right to a relative bucket and find a balanced position to clip the 3rd bolt. Move back left and then continue up on easier terrain to the anchor.

Location

This is right of Mother Grendel and left of Strong Arm Tactics of the southeast face.

Protection

5 bolts, 2 bolt anchor with rings.

Photos

T G
Colorado
  5.10c/d PG13
T G   Colorado
  5.10c/d PG13
It's rather debatable whether the opening moves of this route are anywhere close to .10c for folks under 6 feet tall - getting past the first two bolts felt much harder than Strong Arm Tactics .11a to the right. If you fall before making the second clip, there's very real decking potential. Jul 9, 2017