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Routes in The Grendel

Academic Freedom S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beowulf S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Beyond the Pale T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Daneland S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Exit Stage Right S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Freedom Fighter S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hrunting T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Leitner Route S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Monster Mash, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mother Grendel S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pebble In The Sky S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Pierced Lip Lock S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Strong Arm Tactics S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Mark Rolofson and Kirk Miller, 2010
Page Views: 777 total, 12/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jun 4, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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State Park; Fee Required. Details

Description

This is an interesting, varied, and entertaining route that may push you at the grade...especially if you are not taller than the average guy (5'10"). The upper face has some exquisite, moderate face climbing.

Start on a challenging slab. At 5'10" with a +2 ape index, you can barely reach up and left to a small edge. Pull aboard with a crummy left foot and then a somewhat better right smear. Stay in balance and reach a decent edge. A funky lean and an awkward stem keep you barely there. Fight upward on less-than-adequate nubbins and smears. This lower slab feels like the technical crux of the route. Gain a big ledge, and regroup.

Clip the bolt out right across the gap. Now, you have to make an airy stem out right. You can clip the 8th bolt before you have to commit. If you are tall, you can reach the decent flake. If not, you'll have to do a lieback off a marginal edge, pull your left foot aboard, and reach for the decent flake. Now the fight is on. Scratch your way into a more stable spot and a horizontal hand jam crack. That is the physical crux.

Finally, you get to enjoy some fine face moves that feel reminiscent of Hallett Peak or The Crags face climbs. There is a spot in the middle of the upper face where you have to engage yourself again. Finally, at the last bolt, move left to the arete for a final bit of exposure.

You may need a rest after this climb.

Location

This is right of Leitner Route and left of Monster Mash on the southeast face.

Protection

14 bolts and a 2 bolt anchor with Fixe rings.

Photos

tbol
Front Range, CO.
 
tbol   Front Range, CO.
 
There are two ways to do this. The first time I tried it I campused out right on the roof instead of stemming and reaching. The campus is way more fun and a little bit harder. Seemed like it was bolted to do it that way. The intended way could use the bolt placements a bit more left. Oct 9, 2017
Geoff U
Centennial, CO
  5.11b
Geoff U   Centennial, CO
  5.11b
I was closest to falling between bolts 1 and 2. The juggy traverse is unique and awesome! Jul 17, 2017
T G
Colorado
  5.11b
T G   Colorado
  5.11b
There are two .11 moves on the climb: getting past the first bolt and moving across the gap on the upper portion of the route. On lead, the move across the gap may be incredibly difficult for short folks.... Jul 9, 2017
Todd Ra
Golden
Todd Ra   Golden
This climb is fantastic. So much fun! Don't be deterred by the "tall person" start. I'm 5'7" and found it pretty straightforward and doable. Get on this guy! Aug 26, 2016