Strong Arm Tactics
Avg: 2.7 from 7 votes
Routes in The Grendel
|Academic Freedom S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Beowulf S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Beyond the Pale T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Daneland S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Exit Stage Right S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Freedom Fighter S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Hrunting T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Leitner Route S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Monster Mash, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Mother Grendel S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Pebble In The Sky S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a|
|Pierced Lip Lock S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Strong Arm Tactics S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Type:||Sport, 90 ft|
|FA:||Mark Rolofson and Kirk Miller, 2010|
|Page Views:||777 total, 12/month|
|Shared By:||Leo Paik on Jun 4, 2012|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
State Park; Fee Required. Details
Golden Gate Canyon is a State Park and a $6 (2010) fee is required for entrance. Self serve kiosks exist throughout the park. Annual passes can be purchased for $60.
DescriptionThis is an interesting, varied, and entertaining route that may push you at the grade...especially if you are not taller than the average guy (5'10"). The upper face has some exquisite, moderate face climbing.
Start on a challenging slab. At 5'10" with a +2 ape index, you can barely reach up and left to a small edge. Pull aboard with a crummy left foot and then a somewhat better right smear. Stay in balance and reach a decent edge. A funky lean and an awkward stem keep you barely there. Fight upward on less-than-adequate nubbins and smears. This lower slab feels like the technical crux of the route. Gain a big ledge, and regroup.
Clip the bolt out right across the gap. Now, you have to make an airy stem out right. You can clip the 8th bolt before you have to commit. If you are tall, you can reach the decent flake. If not, you'll have to do a lieback off a marginal edge, pull your left foot aboard, and reach for the decent flake. Now the fight is on. Scratch your way into a more stable spot and a horizontal hand jam crack. That is the physical crux.
Finally, you get to enjoy some fine face moves that feel reminiscent of Hallett Peak or The Crags face climbs. There is a spot in the middle of the upper face where you have to engage yourself again. Finally, at the last bolt, move left to the arete for a final bit of exposure.
You may need a rest after this climb.