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Routes in The Grendel

Academic Freedom S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beowoof T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Beowulf S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Beyond the Pale T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Daneland S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Exit Stage Right S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Freedom Fighter S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hrunting T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Leitner Route S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Monster Mash, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mother Grendel S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nægling T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pebble In The Sky S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Pierced Lip Lock S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Strong Arm Tactics S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Dougald MacDonald, Mark Hammond
Page Views: 77 total · 17/month
Shared By: Dougald MacDonald on Jul 2, 2018
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: State Park@SEMICOLON@ Fee Required. Details

Description

This varied pitch climbs the shallow corner just left of Exit Stage Right to a good ledge, continues up the left side of a blunt prow to a roof, then exits the roof right on strenuous edges and flakes to reach easier ground and the anchor for Exit Stage Right. It has cruxes at the initial corner and the final face section. One hold at the start of the second crux was strangely seeping in midsummer, but otherwise this route is pretty clean and solid.

Location

Start in shallow corner immediately left of Exit Stage Right. You can clip the first two bolts on that route or place solid nuts at the start. The rest of this route is not close to any bolts.

Protection

RPs to #3 cam. The climb protects well, but skill with small wires is needed. Fortunately, the trickiest pieces are placed from excellent stances. The two cruxes are protected by small RPs (backed up with great nuts close below) and hand-size cams, respectively.

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