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Routes in The Grendel

Academic Freedom S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beowulf S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Beyond the Pale T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Daneland S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Exit Stage Right S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Freedom Fighter S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hrunting T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Leitner Route S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Monster Mash, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mother Grendel S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pebble In The Sky S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Pierced Lip Lock S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Strong Arm Tactics S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Rich Kelly, Dougald MacDonald
Page Views: 260 total, 15/month
Shared By: Dougald MacDonald on Jun 29, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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State Park; Fee Required. Details

Description

This steep trad climb breaches the roof between Academic Freedom and Exit Stage Right with a puzzling crux. Varied and interesting, with a good finger crack and corner to start, well-protected but strenuous moves turning the roof to the left, and a fun hand crack above the roof. After the hand crack, place directionals and move left to finish on Academic Freedom, clipping one bolt before the anchor.

This gets a provisional three stars, pending some traffic, because parts of it are quite lichenous. As is, it's still really fun.

The pitch was led with a couple of falls, restarting each time from the no-hands rest stance under the roof, and then followed clean. This will be redpointed...if we get around to it.

Location

Start at obvious cracks behind the big tree beween Academic Freedom and Exit Stage Right. The orange, right-facing corner leading to a roof is the main landmark.

Protection

Small to medium wires and one set of cams to #3, including several small cams. One tiny wire is fixed in the roof. Back it up.

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