Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Kirk Miller & Mark Rolofson, 2010
Page Views: 1,505 total · 17/month
Shared By: J. Broussard on Aug 1, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


20 Opinions

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Access Issue: State Park@SEMICOLON@ Fee Required. Details

Description

Climb up to a ledge & the 1st bolt. Follow an easy wide crack to a ledge. Pull over a small overlap on the right, past the 4th bolt. Wander up to a ledge and the 6th bolt. Climb a steep face past 2 bolts to a long narrow ledge. Traverse 10' left and reach the 9th bolt. A short vertical face leads to a roof. Move left on a horizontal crack to where the roof get smaller. Pull over the roof on jugs. Move right to the anchor.

Location

This is the farthest route on the right on the Southeast face of the Grendel.

Protection

10 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

What a tremendous route! This climb is not for the faint of heart 5.8+ lead climbers. The panoramic views once at top are worth the gray hairs. There is a 5.10 on the left side of this face which is better suited for a warm up before this 5.8. Aug 1, 2011
stickit
5.10b/c
stickit  
5.10b/c
The last moves up and around the last bolt feels 10b/c. Sep 18, 2011
Ramo D  
Climbed this today and the moves don't seem out of line with 5.8ish, but the sequences are tricky. Getting around the 2nd roof was a bit of a puzzle, and then the last move to the anchors takes commitment. Warm-up on other routes before taking this one on. Jun 8, 2014
teece303
Highlands Ranch, CO
  5.10b PG13
teece303   Highlands Ranch, CO
  5.10b PG13
Don't warm up on this route: even better, just don't climb it.

I really loved everything I climbed on the Grendel, until I got to this. A goofy, wandering line with at least one clip placed to hurt a shorter climber. A goofy, out of character traverse to pull a roof that is nowhere near the universe of 5.8 climbing, topped off by a rap or lower that makes cleaning the route a pain.

And then the rating is sandbagged enough that a 5.8 climber could hurt themselves. Bummer of a route. Especially considering the respect I have for the route developers. Aug 25, 2014
Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.9+
Top Rope Hero   Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.9+
This line reminds me of that ol' saying: Short people climb, tall people reach.

Def. sandbagged (the 5.9 Mother Grendel just to the left felt a full grade EASIER, and it was wet...). Def. an ankle breaker, too, if'n you blow a couple of the crux clips. I'm tall so had no problems, but my short(er) partner had a real nasty time of it inna couple of places. Aug 3, 2015
skye bacus
Lakewood, CO
  5.10a/b
skye bacus   Lakewood, CO
  5.10a/b
Super fun route with really neat roofs.

If you are less than 6ft tall, this is a 10a minimum. The last roof is comparable to some 10b's. There are tiny edges for feet, and you pull up on a left locked off crimp to high crimps on the right, while basically smearing. It might be much easier if you can just reach the good holds, which happen eventually, but if you are shorter, you are going to have to work up several crimps until you can maybe throw a right heel up. Very fun but definitely NOT a 5.8+. Sep 14, 2015
Bill Farrand
  5.10b PG13
Bill Farrand  
  5.10b PG13
Definitely harder for those without basketball player reach. I brought along some 1/2 to 1.5 cams and was able to put them in before some of the bolt placements which gave me some peace of mind in making those bolt clips. Jun 18, 2017
T G
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
T G   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
The griping about this route is overstated. It's not 5.8+, but it's no more than .10a, and it's a fine .10a at that. One or two long slings at the top of the route could be beneficial for helping to manage rope drag. Jul 9, 2017