Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Kirk Miller & Lindie Brink, 2006
Page Views: 1,431 total · 16/month
Shared By: J. Broussard on Aug 1, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: State Park@SEMICOLON@ Fee Required. Details

Description

Ascend a moderate face past two bolts to a ledge. Clip the third bolt (reachy) and ascend a short vertical face to a large, sloping ledge. Gain the ledge & step right to an easy left-facing corner that angles up right. Follow the corner to another ledge and the 7th bolt. Pull onto a sloping shelf & traverse left to finish.

Location

Begin 30 feet right of Academic Freedom (which is on the Southwest face) where the wall breaks into an amphitheater of routes facing Southeast. This route begins just right of a tree and a slab that separates the two nearby faces.

Protection

9 [7?] bolts & 2 bolt anchor.

Per J. Broussard: use the lower anchor off to your left.

Photos

J. Broussard
CordryCorner
  5.8
J. Broussard   CordryCorner
  5.8
BEWARE: use the lower anchor off to your left. The line continues up easy and loose rock to one more bolt and then to a SINGLE BOLTED anchor.

It's best to avoid this stretch all-together and just use the lower anchor off to your left after the third mantle. Sep 1, 2011
ErikaNW
Golden, CO
ErikaNW   Golden, CO
Should have read Jeffeos comment prior to climbing this - instead was going off the bolt count of 9 + 2 which made us think we should keep going up the loose stuff to the right.

It should be 7 bolts + 2 bolt anchor (finish after the 3rd mantle as Jeffeos said). Jun 2, 2012
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
It appears that one of the two anchor bolts on the right was removed, leaving a single bolt with a link or two and a bolt sleeve inches down and left of it. It is likely that the stacked blocks inspired the FAs to modify the route to finish after the 7th bolt down and left. Jun 5, 2012