Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Grendel

Academic Freedom S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beowulf S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Beyond the Pale T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Daneland S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Exit Stage Right S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Freedom Fighter S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hrunting T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Leitner Route S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Monster Mash, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mother Grendel S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pebble In The Sky S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Pierced Lip Lock S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Strong Arm Tactics S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Mark Rolofson & Kirk Miller on June 18, 2006
Page Views: 148 total, 31/month
Shared By: Mark Rolofson on Jun 27, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
State Park; Fee Required. Details

Description

Scramble up to a ledge below a roof. Clip the 1st bolt in the roof. Move right & up on big holds over the lip before moving slightly left. Clip the 2nd bolt & make a strenuous move off side pulls or an undercling (.11c/d) to reach jugs above. Continue with ease to a stance & 4th bolt. At the 5th bolt, the difficulties begin again. Ascend a vertical face via small edges with the crux at the 7th bolt (.11d/.12a) to reach a shelf. Awkward moves gain the shelf & a good rest standing on it. From the left side of the shelf & the 9th bolt, move left & up to a stance left of the 10th bolt. Move right & up to a small roof & the last bolt over the lip. Strenuous moves pull the roof on good holds. Continue up moderate moves to the anchor.

I originally rated this climb 5.11d/12a. If it is well-chalked, it may feel like 5.11d. I recently revisited this climb to find no chalk on the holds. I wasn't sure where the small holds on the vertical face were at first. Without chalk on the holds or beta, this climb feels like 5.12a.

Location

Begin 15 feet left of Pierced Lip Lock.

Protection

11 bolts / 2 rings.

Photos

- No Photos -
I would have to say, read the route description again & more carefully. "From the left side of the shelf & the 9th bolt, move left & up to a stance left of the 10th bolt. Move right & up to a small roof & the last bolt over the lip. Strenuous moves pull the roof on good holds." There is a lichen streak straight up above the 9th bolt, but I move left past it. Avoiding the final roof to the left may be unpleasant & dirty. I pull over the left side of the roof with the last bolt in front of me (at my face & chest).

Feel free to visit the route with a wire brush & clean it to your satisfaction. The remaining lichen is not a issue for me personally, since I don't climb up the lichen streak. Aug 10, 2017
Geoff U
Centennial, CO
  5.12a
Geoff U   Centennial, CO
  5.12a
Kinda frustrating route, b/c it's 3 stars for the 1st two thirds - great movement, but then the last three bolts are awful (like bomb quality). Chossy rock covered in lichen - no fun at all. I was able to get through the lower part - the supposed crux - but struggled in the dirtiness, making it undesirable to project.

Next time, I will do the bottom two thirds and then cut right after the 8th bolt (past the crux already) and link to the top of Pierced Lip Lock. That would be a 3-star climb. Jul 17, 2017