Avg: 2 from 2 votes
Routes in The Grendel
|Academic Freedom S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Beowulf S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Beyond the Pale T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Daneland S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Exit Stage Right S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Freedom Fighter S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Hrunting T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Leitner Route S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Monster Mash, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Mother Grendel S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Pebble In The Sky S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a|
|Pierced Lip Lock S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Strong Arm Tactics S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Type:||Sport, 80 ft|
|FA:||Mark Rolofson & Kirk Miller on June 18, 2006|
|Page Views:||148 total, 31/month|
|Shared By:||Mark Rolofson on Jun 27, 2017|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
State Park; Fee Required. Details
Golden Gate Canyon is a State Park and a $6 (2010) fee is required for entrance. Self serve kiosks exist throughout the park. Annual passes can be purchased for $60.
DescriptionScramble up to a ledge below a roof. Clip the 1st bolt in the roof. Move right & up on big holds over the lip before moving slightly left. Clip the 2nd bolt & make a strenuous move off side pulls or an undercling (.11c/d) to reach jugs above. Continue with ease to a stance & 4th bolt. At the 5th bolt, the difficulties begin again. Ascend a vertical face via small edges with the crux at the 7th bolt (.11d/.12a) to reach a shelf. Awkward moves gain the shelf & a good rest standing on it. From the left side of the shelf & the 9th bolt, move left & up to a stance left of the 10th bolt. Move right & up to a small roof & the last bolt over the lip. Strenuous moves pull the roof on good holds. Continue up moderate moves to the anchor.
I originally rated this climb 5.11d/12a. If it is well-chalked, it may feel like 5.11d. I recently revisited this climb to find no chalk on the holds. I wasn't sure where the small holds on the vertical face were at first. Without chalk on the holds or beta, this climb feels like 5.12a.
LocationBegin 15 feet left of Pierced Lip Lock.
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