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Routes in The Geriatric Walls

Anniversry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Around the Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cold Feet T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Easy As Instant Pudding Pie S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Gaggle of Geese S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Steppin` S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
It's Not What It Seems S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Kitty Litter Pillar T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Lost and Found T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New Blood T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Old Crow S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Put My Foot Where? S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Steppin Out T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Three Brushes T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tree Keys S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Yellowjacket S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: July 31,2011 - Dave Penny, Chris Graham, Bob Ahearn
Page Views: 691 total, 10/month
Shared By: dpen Penny on Mar 25, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

The route consists of a slab to a nicely featured face and then finishes up a steep corner. Dave Penny discovered the route when he bailed right around a corner from a 5.12 project. Under heavy lichen he found nicely featured rock, which he used to climb up and retrieve his top rope anchor.

Pitch 1: Step up on nice rock to clip the first bolt. Step onto the ledge and lay the crack back to the right (protected by cams). When the crack ends, step left onto the face with nicely featured rock protected by bolts. Surmount the face onto a ledge. Follow the corner up past three bolts ( crux) to join the last bolt and anchor on Tree Keys.

Location

Hike left along the cliff past Robinson Crusoe. As the trail goes uphill to Wanderlust take a left on a separate trail. The first route you come to is Easy As Pudding Pie. Continue along the cliff gradually uphill and look for a tree close to the cliff with keys embedded in the trunk near eye level. This is Tree Keys. Around the Corner starts 15 ft left of Tree Keys, directly in front of the beech tree.

Protection

8 bolts, 1 or 2 cams, 1 optional cam before exit, or just pull on thru. Cams are small to mid

Photos

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Rob Albert
  5.10a
Rob Albert  
  5.10a
Leave the cams on the ground. This is an extremely well bolted (at the crux) route. MUCH easier if tall! Aug 21, 2016
Cron
Barrington, NH
 
Cron   Barrington, NH
 
Fun crux move - the only bit that would merit 5.10. Cams not really needed - route is very well protected w/ bolts. Oct 27, 2013