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Around the Corner

5.10a, Trad, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 2.2 from 35 votes
FA: July 31,2011 - Dave Penny, Chris Graham, Bob Ahearn
New Hampshire > WM: N Conway > 02. Humphrey's… > 1. The Geriatric Walls

Description

The route consists of a slab to a nicely featured face and then finishes up a steep corner. Dave Penny discovered the route when he bailed right around a corner from a 5.12 project. Under heavy lichen he found nicely featured rock, which he used to climb up and retrieve his top rope anchor.

Pitch 1: Step up on nice rock to clip the first bolt. Step onto the ledge and lay the crack back to the right (protected by cams). When the crack ends, step left onto the face with nicely featured rock protected by bolts. Surmount the face onto a ledge. Follow the corner up past three bolts ( crux) to join the last bolt and anchor on Tree Keys.

Location

Hike left along the cliff past Robinson Crusoe. As the trail goes uphill to Wanderlust and Cakewalk take a left on a separate trail. The first route you come to is Easy As Pudding Pie. Continue along the cliff gradually uphill and look for a tree close to the cliff with keys embedded in the trunk near eye level. This is Tree Keys. Around the Corner starts a few ft left of Tree Keys, directly in front of the ( now [2023] “woodpecker-ed “) beech tree a foot from the cliff. 

Protection

8 bolts, 1 or 2 cams, 1 optional cam before exit, or just pull on thru. Cams are small to mid

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Around the Corner
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Cron
Maine / NH
 
[Hide Comment] Fun crux move - the only bit that would merit 5.10. Cams not really needed - route is very well protected w/ bolts. Oct 27, 2013
Rob Albert
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Leave the cams on the ground. This is an extremely well bolted (at the crux) route. MUCH easier if tall! Aug 21, 2016
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
[Hide Comment] Cruxes are well protected by bolts, but the stretch between the first and 2nd bolts is not. Even if you sling the tree, you'll end up in ground fall territory, and it is not all that easy if the rock is wet. A few cams is a good idea, fingers to thin hands size. May 27, 2019