Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Jonathan Garlough & Chris Magness
Page Views: 194 total · 3/month
Shared By: chinos on Mar 31, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

New Blood is the project formerly known as Ain't Nothing in the Handren guide.

This route climbs the arete just left of Around the Corner.

Climb the unprotected 5.8 slab to a horizontal/crack with good gear. Pull the overlap and place a pink tricam in a slot in the flake. Make the crux moves up the thin seam and arete past two bolts. Finish at a bolt anchor on the ledge.

The start is often wet, but can be avoided by climbing the slab to the left past to bolts to a horizontal. Traverse right to the crack.

Location

Left of Around the Corner

Protection

cams, pink tricam, bolts, bolt anchor

Photos

- No Photos -
chinos
  5.12a/b
chinos  
  5.12a/b
Thanks to Chris Magness for setting the line up.
I recleaned the route and gave it a few burns figuring out a sequence that worked for me. I went back the next day with Magness and sent! Mar 31, 2013
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
Climbing pretty hard for March my friend... i better get going ! Mar 31, 2013
chinos
  5.12a/b
chinos  
  5.12a/b
trying to step it up, maybe repeat some of your gems this year! Apr 1, 2013
jim.dangle    
Is the crux of this protected by the pink tricam [gulp!]? May 25, 2014
chinos
  5.12a/b
chinos  
  5.12a/b
The crux is bolt protected! I also recall a cam working instead of the tricam? Jun 15, 2014
Tricam.

The placement isn't in the flake, it's in a bottoming crack hidden by the flake. The flake is bad, but the crack is good and the tricam seems solid. Wouldn't want to test it though.

A fun lead. One of two good routes on the Geriatric Wall (the other being Lost and Found). Boy Wonder strikes again! May 18, 2015