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Routes in The Geriatric Walls

Anniversry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Around the Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cold Feet T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Easy As Instant Pudding Pie S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Gaggle of Geese S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Steppin` S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
It's Not What It Seems S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Kitty Litter Pillar T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Lost and Found T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New Blood T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Old Crow S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Put My Foot Where? S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Steppin Out T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Three Brushes T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tree Keys S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Yellowjacket S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Chris Magness, Jamie Schaaf, 8/10
Page Views: 550 total, 7/month
Shared By: chris magness on Nov 5, 2011 with updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

A gear protected variation to Anniversary.

Climb the flake just left of Anniversary, pull the roof and join Anniversary at it's last bolt.

Easier 5.10 if you pull the roof left trending, harder 5.10 if you pull it straight on.

The crux gear is extremely marginal. Could improve with traffic.

Location

left side.

Protection

small stuff. look for a hidden small/medium sized cam below the seam at the overlap.

Photos

twellman
Cambridge
twellman   Cambridge
Seems like that could just as easily make the gear worse... but I hope it does get better so I can lead it next time I'm there! Sep 3, 2012
The seam is crystally, and crystals fail. The placements could improve as the crystals wear or blow out, which does happen with traffic. Nuts and cams have blown out if this particular seam (thus beginning the process of placement improvement). If you don't consider features such as crystals when you place gear, perhaps you should as the quality of your protection is greatly effected. Sep 1, 2012
twellman
Cambridge
twellman   Cambridge
Tried this on toprope. It felt a bit contrived, but was a fun little boulder problem anyway. Grade seems dependent on exactly where you pull the roof. A couple of small nuts in the seam just over the roof would be solid, but perhaps hard to place from below.

The crux gear is marginal, but could improve with traffic?? I didn't know gear gets better with traffic haha... Aug 27, 2012
This is a variation to Anniversary, Gaggle of Geese starts on the slab to the right. The crux gear is marginal. Cold Feet is a 5.10 for solid 5.10 leaders. I clipped only Anniversary's last bolt on the FA. I know of at least one other climber who has attempted this route and fell at the crux, his gear failed but had clipped a bolt below. I believe he was using different protection than me. I felt as though the gear could work if I were to fall.

As this route is one of the only trad lines on the geriatric wall and it is easily toproped, I'm not going to add a bolt. The lead is very rewarding. Nice work dude, your probably the second clean ascent. Apr 28, 2012
is this a variation of "gaggle of geese" or "anniversary"? i pulled the overlap today on what i thought was a variation to "gaggle of geese" on marginal gear. definitely an enjoyable variation. i thought there should be a bolt added at the overlap. the gear is too marginal and a groundfall is possible. i would rate it solid 5.10. Apr 17, 2012