Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Grant Hiskes & Doe DeRoss 1985
Page Views: 1,004 total · 12/month
Shared By: Osprey Overhang on Mar 12, 2012
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


9 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

There are many good finger cracks around the Royal Arches area. This is one of them: In a right facing corner is a clean, straight in, thin finger tip crack. Climb this crack with good quality granite 90 ft. to a dirty/bushy ledge. The quality quickly deteriorates just before reaching the ledge at the top. Like many of the other cracks in the area, this pitch is good for climbers just breaking into the grade.

Location

This climb is left of the start to the Royal Arches and right of Peruvian Flake.

Protection

Rack up with thin pro to 2". Rappel from slings around bushes.

Photos

Kaleem Khwaja
Emeryville, California
  5.10b
Kaleem Khwaja   Emeryville, California
  5.10b
The lower half is excellent, but I'd recommend lowering off the bush half way up, as the upper half of the crack is buried in leaves, too full of moss to protect easily, and full of biting red ants. 3 stars for the bottom, a bomb for the top, we'll call it 2 stars overall.

For climbers just breaking into the grade, I recommend doubles of blue and green Aliens to keep from decking in the thin lower section. May 29, 2013
Good route but I would not suggest this for the climber breaking into 5.10 trad, especially in Yosemite. To be safe you need many small cams for the first 30 feet, as the crack is mostly just tips to the thirty foot mark. As for the second half, I found no moss but did encounter ants in the crack but were not excessive. The bush half way up is NOT recommended as a rap anchor, please be safe and climb the route to the top tree where there is webbing and two rap rings. Same rating as Peruvian Flake but is definitely spicier and more technical. Enjoy. Apr 5, 2017