Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: John Tuttle, Norman Boles and George Watson
Page Views: 1,285 total · 9/month
Shared By: Daniel S on May 16, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

Crux is the face friction climbing between old quarter inch bolts. The climb starts out on a nice crack, hands to fingers size, before petering out onto face climbing. The first bolt you come across is just to the left and 8 Ft above where the crack peters out. Continue up and left some more on thin friction climbing past three more bolts.

Location

Climb the first crack left of the 5.6 chimney start of Royal Arches route. (Just left of Age of Industry)

Protection

1 1/2 inch to 1/2 inch cams for the crack, quick draws for bolts. Sling the tree above or use the three bolt anchor of Age of Industry.

Photos

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Kaleem Khwaja
Emeryville, California
  5.10a/b PG13
Kaleem Khwaja   Emeryville, California
  5.10a/b PG13
The Reid guide calls this .10c R, but I don't think it deserves the R now that all 4 1/4" bolts have been replaced (thank you!).

I also think it's a tad softer than Poker Face (10b) and Blackballed (10b), though more runout and dirtier.

The first bolt placement has me scratching my head as it's one move out of reach from a great stance and forces a ~10a move to get to it. If I were bolting this ground up I can't imagine not placing it one foot lower. But hey, makes for a little more spice I guess. May 29, 2013
King Tut
Citrus Heights
  5.10c PG13
King Tut   Citrus Heights
  5.10c PG13
@Kaleem: It was put there on the FA after a long winter of no climbing with pent up energy for "spiciness" that in retrospect should have been a little lower. I think the stance was a crumbly flake that has since pulled off making a hard move to reach it...If it had been placed lower then the next stance would have been used for another, but it was felt to be too close to the other to use at the time. The original route goes more or less straight over the last bolt (crux) up and right to the bolted anchor it shares with Age of Industry. SCH was put up before Age of Industry.

Others have gone up the dirty seam to the tree and left slings (variation that makes the route easier). We lost interest in continuing the route above the anchors but others have extended it, dunno about how good the climbing.

Named for a line in the REM song Green Grow the Rushes.

youtube.com/watch?v=LByv3Hs… Aug 21, 2016