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Routes in Royal Arches

1096 T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Age of Industry S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Arches Terrace T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Arches Terrace Direct T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Arete Butler T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Astro Spam T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Benzoin and Edges AKA The Testes Squeeze T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Demimonde S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Double Trouble T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Endorphine S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Face Card T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fine Line T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Firefingers S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Greasy but Groovy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Hershey Highway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Krovy Rookers T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Maxine's Wall T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mid-Life Crisis T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Move Like a Stud T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Peruvian Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peruvian flake right T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Poker Face S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rambler, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Royal Arches T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Royal Arches Alt. Start - Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Royal Flush T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Royal Perogative T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rupto Pac T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Serenity Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Shaky Flakes T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Sons of Yesterday T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Super Slide T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Surf Nazi T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Surplus Cheaper Hands T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Texas Chainsaw Massacre T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Trial By Fire T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unnamed 5.3 T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Unnamed Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Violent Bear It Away, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Y Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Marc Volland - 12/2008
Page Views: 1,106 total, 11/month
Shared By: Osprey Overhang on Nov 26, 2009
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This route is mostly a seam which opens up to take pro every body length. Its a heady lead but ends up protecting well. Just like the other routs in the area, it usually needs to be cleaned since it doesn't see the traffic that Y-crack does.

Location

This route is twenty feet left of Y-crack.

Protection

I take one set of aliens up to red, one hand-to-large sized piece for the bottom flare, and one set of stoppers. Alien offsets also come in handy on this one. Make sure to bring a small stopper to protect the crux which is a key hole like placement in a steep section of a groove. It is only a move or two to get past the crux before a finger tip sized stopper can be placed on the right side of the groove. A continuous finger crack then begins and runs all the way to the anchor. Ideally, you would want a green, yellow, and red alien to finish off the top third of the pitch. There is a bolted rappel anchor at the top and can be rappelled with one 60m rope.

Photos

Mark P Thomas
Draper
  5.10b/c
Mark P Thomas   Draper
  5.10b/c
Fun little problem and a great TR after climbing Y Crack. You can also climb a 5.3 corner to the left to access the TR anchors. For bonus points, climb the flare that comes up from beneath the starting platform - about 5.7 or so. Mar 5, 2012
Osprey Overhang   ...
 
A huge tree branch was hiding this crack. The branch broke in winter 2008 opening the line for climbing. Otherwise, this line would have pin scars in it. Similar to the story behind Grant's crack. Jan 1, 2010