Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Chris Cantwell and Mark Grant, 1980
Page Views: 399 total · 85/month
Shared By: Brandon Adams on Sep 3, 2018
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

Rebolted in 2018 (thanks for the quality hardware ASCA).

Pitch 1: 10c
New direct start.  Still the lowest quality pitch of the climb.  This pitch is the price of admission. Climb past a couple bolts up a leftward trending ramp.  Pull the roof with bolt protection then climb another ramp to the anchor.

Pitch 2: 11a
The glory begins. Edge right past a bolt to a splitter that opens from tips to perfect fingers.

Pitch 3: 11d
The splitter continues but closes up. Luckily, edges around the crack provide a method of ascent.  The crack accepts small gear in pods and there are 5 or 6 fixed pins for pro. I love this pitch. One of the lower angle 11+ pitches around, classic Yosemite.

Pitch 4: 11d
Step right past a fixed pin to a steeper thin finger crack. Crank up to a roof and a rest. Undercling out right and climb the handcrack to another bolted anchor. Another high quality pitch.

Rappel from here with a single 60m
Or
Continue up and left into a 5.8 fist crack to join Royal Arches in one more pitch

Location

Royal Arches area.  Starts just to the left of Poker Face.

Protection

Bolts, fixed pins, cams, nuts.
1x nuts, including micros, offsets helpful
cams:
2x very small to BD .5, offsets helpful
1x BD.75 to BD 2

Photos

Rebecca C
Bishop, CA
Rebecca C   Bishop, CA
Pitches 2 & 3 are really beautiful. The picture doesn't do it justice. (Didn't climb pitch 4 - I micro'ed the first 3 during the rebolting effort.) Sep 3, 2018
Harumpfster Boondoggle
Between yesterday and today.
Harumpfster Boondoggle   Between yesterday and today.
So stoked you guys cleaned up this classic and replaced the hardware. Oct 24, 2018
tallmark515
San Francisco
tallmark515   San Francisco
Were the fixed pins replaced too? Nov 23, 2018
Brandon Adams
  5.11d
Brandon Adams  
  5.11d
Yes. Old fixed pins were pulled and replaced. Bomber. Nov 23, 2018