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> Central Royal Arches
King Snake
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches |
FA: | Chris Cantwell and Mark Grant, 1980 |
Page Views: | 2,678 total · 34/month |
Shared By: | Brandon Adams on Sep 3, 2018 |
Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Rebolted in 2018 (thanks for the quality hardware ASCA).
Pitch 1: 10c
New direct start. Still the lowest quality pitch of the climb. This pitch is the price of admission. Climb past a couple bolts up a leftward trending ramp. Pull the roof with bolt protection then climb another ramp to the anchor.
Pitch 2: 11a
The glory begins. Edge right past a bolt to a splitter that opens from tips to perfect fingers.
Pitch 3: 11d
The splitter continues but closes up. Luckily, edges around the crack provide a method of ascent. The crack accepts small gear in pods and there are 5 or 6 fixed pins for pro. I love this pitch. One of the lower angle 11+ pitches around, classic Yosemite.
Pitch 4: 11d
Step right past a fixed pin to a steeper thin finger crack. Crank up to a roof and a rest. Undercling out right and climb the handcrack to another bolted anchor. Another high quality pitch.
Rappel from here with a single 60m
Or
Continue up and left into a 5.8 fist crack to join Royal Arches in one more pitch
Pitch 1: 10c
New direct start. Still the lowest quality pitch of the climb. This pitch is the price of admission. Climb past a couple bolts up a leftward trending ramp. Pull the roof with bolt protection then climb another ramp to the anchor.
Pitch 2: 11a
The glory begins. Edge right past a bolt to a splitter that opens from tips to perfect fingers.
Pitch 3: 11d
The splitter continues but closes up. Luckily, edges around the crack provide a method of ascent. The crack accepts small gear in pods and there are 5 or 6 fixed pins for pro. I love this pitch. One of the lower angle 11+ pitches around, classic Yosemite.
Pitch 4: 11d
Step right past a fixed pin to a steeper thin finger crack. Crank up to a roof and a rest. Undercling out right and climb the handcrack to another bolted anchor. Another high quality pitch.
Rappel from here with a single 60m
Or
Continue up and left into a 5.8 fist crack to join Royal Arches in one more pitch
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