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Routes in Royal Arches

1096 T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Adrenaline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Age of Industry S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Arches Terrace T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Arches Terrace Direct T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Arete Butler T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Astro Spam T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Benzoin and Edges AKA The Testes Squeeze T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Demimonde S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Deviltry T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Double Trouble T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Endorphine S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Face Card T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fine Line T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Firefingers S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Greasy but Groovy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Hershey Highway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
King Snake T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Krovy Rookers T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Maxine's Wall T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mid-Life Crisis T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Move Like a Stud T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Permanent Waves T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Peruvian Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peruvian flake right T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Poker Face S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rambler, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Royal Arches T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Royal Arches Alt. Start - Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Royal Flush T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Royal Perogative T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rupto Pac T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Serenity Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Shaky Flakes T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Shining, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sons of Yesterday T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Super Slide T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Surf Nazi T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Surplus Cheaper Hands T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Texas Chainsaw Massacre T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Trial By Fire T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unnamed 5.3 T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Unnamed Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Violent Bear It Away, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Y Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Chris Cantwell and Mark Grant, 1980
Page Views: 161 total · 161/month
Shared By: Brandon Adams on Sep 3, 2018
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

Rebolted in 2018 (thanks for the quality hardware ASCA).

Pitch 1: 10c
New direct start.  Still the lowest quality pitch of the climb.  This pitch is the price of admission. Climb past a couple bolts up a leftward trending ramp.  Pull the roof with bolt protection then climb another ramp to the anchor.

Pitch 2: 11a
The glory begins. Edge right past a bolt to a splitter that opens from tips to perfect fingers.

Pitch 3: 11d
The splitter continues but closes up. Luckily, edges around the crack provide a method of ascent.  The crack accepts small gear in pods and there are 5 or 6 fixed pins for pro. I love this pitch. One of the lower angle 11+ pitches around, classic Yosemite.

Pitch 4: 11d
Step right past a fixed pin to a steeper thin finger crack. Crank up to a roof and a rest. Undercling out right and climb the handcrack to another bolted anchor. Another high quality pitch.

Rappel from here with a single 60m
Or
Continue up and left into a 5.8 fist crack to join Royal Arches in one more pitch

Location

Royal Arches area.  Starts just to the left of Poker Face.

Protection

Bolts, fixed pins, cams, nuts.
1x nuts, including micros, offsets helpful
cams:
2x very small to BD .5, offsets helpful
1x BD.75 to BD 2

Photos

Pitches 2 & 3 are really beautiful. The picture doesn't do it justice. (Didn't climb pitch 4 - I micro'ed the first 3 during the rebolting effort.) Sep 3, 2018

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