Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Norman Boles, George Watson and John Tuttle, 1986
Page Views: 1,959 total · 14/month
Shared By: Daniel S on May 16, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

A well protected face friction climb on a rounded arete. Crux is after the third bolt.

Location

The route is the first bolted line immediately left of the 5.6 chimney start of Royal Arches.

Protection

5 to 6 quick draws for the modern bolts protecting the route, and slings for the three bolt anchor (of which two of the bolts are old quarter inch bolts).

Photos

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Kaleem Khwaja
Emeryville, California
  5.11b/c
Kaleem Khwaja   Emeryville, California
  5.11b/c
I actually thought the crux was getting off the ground (unless you use the crack start of Surplus Cheaper Hands a few feet left, which I assume is off-route). Difficulty seemed to ease up after the second bolt. Then again I did find myself doing a pull up on my finger nails somewhere around the 3rd bolt, but that was more painful than cruxy.

The anchor is entirely rebolted now. May 29, 2013
King Tut
Citrus Heights
  5.11a/b PG13
King Tut   Citrus Heights
  5.11a/b PG13
The First Ascent of this route was by Norman Boles, George Watson and John Tuttle in 1986. I think I neglected to send in the FA info to Donny Reid and so he or somebody named it ";Age of Industry"; as a fair summation of the development of numerous routes in this area at the time. We probably had some dorky name for it now lost to posterity.

A little sporty in the last run out to the anchors (dunno who called this a Sport Climb, its not), but loose flakes long gone should make this reasonable. Thanks to those who replaced bolts on it.

Opening moves are a bit of a reach problem but you can alternately start in the Surplus Cheaper Hands dihedral if you just want some fun 5.10 climbing. Jul 23, 2015