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Routes in Royal Arches

1096 T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Adrenaline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Age of Industry S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Arches Terrace T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Arches Terrace Direct T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Arete Butler T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Astro Spam T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Benzoin and Edges AKA The Testes Squeeze T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Demimonde S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Deviltry T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Double Trouble T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Endorphine S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Face Card T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fine Line T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Firefingers S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Greasy but Groovy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Hershey Highway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Krovy Rookers T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Maxine's Wall T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mid-Life Crisis T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Move Like a Stud T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Peruvian Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peruvian flake right T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Poker Face S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rambler, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Royal Arches T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Royal Arches Alt. Start - Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Royal Flush T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Royal Perogative T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rupto Pac T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Serenity Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Shaky Flakes T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Sons of Yesterday T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Super Slide T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Surf Nazi T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Surplus Cheaper Hands T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Texas Chainsaw Massacre T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Trial By Fire T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unnamed 5.3 T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Unnamed Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Violent Bear It Away, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Y Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Norman Boles, George Watson and John Tuttle, 1986
Page Views: 1,835 total · 14/month
Shared By: Daniel S on May 16, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15 Details

Description [Edit]

A well protected face friction climb on a rounded arete. Crux is after the third bolt.

Location [Edit]

The route is the first bolted line immediately left of the 5.6 chimney start of Royal Arches.

Protection [Edit]

5 to 6 quick draws for the modern bolts protecting the route, and slings for the three bolt anchor (of which two of the bolts are old quarter inch bolts).

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Kaleem Khwaja
Emeryville, California
  5.11b/c
Kaleem Khwaja   Emeryville, California
  5.11b/c
I actually thought the crux was getting off the ground (unless you use the crack start of Surplus Cheaper Hands a few feet left, which I assume is off-route). Difficulty seemed to ease up after the second bolt. Then again I did find myself doing a pull up on my finger nails somewhere around the 3rd bolt, but that was more painful than cruxy.

The anchor is entirely rebolted now. May 29, 2013
King Tut
Citrus Heights
  5.11a/b PG13
King Tut   Citrus Heights
  5.11a/b PG13
The First Ascent of this route was by Norman Boles, George Watson and John Tuttle in 1986. I think I neglected to send in the FA info to Donny Reid and so he or somebody named it ";Age of Industry"; as a fair summation of the development of numerous routes in this area at the time. We probably had some dorky name for it now lost to posterity.

A little sporty in the last run out to the anchors (dunno who called this a Sport Climb, its not), but loose flakes long gone should make this reasonable. Thanks to those who replaced bolts on it.

Opening moves are a bit of a reach problem but you can alternately start in the Surplus Cheaper Hands dihedral if you just want some fun 5.10 climbing. Jul 23, 2015

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