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Routes in Royal Arches

1096 T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Adrenaline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Age of Industry S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Arches Terrace T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Arches Terrace Direct T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Arete Butler T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Astro Spam T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Benzoin and Edges AKA The Testes Squeeze T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Demimonde S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Deviltry T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Double Trouble T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Endorphine S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Face Card T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fine Line T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Firefingers S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Greasy but Groovy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Hershey Highway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Krovy Rookers T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Maxine's Wall T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mid-Life Crisis T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Move Like a Stud T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Peruvian Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peruvian flake right T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Poker Face S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rambler, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Royal Arches T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Royal Arches Alt. Start - Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Royal Flush T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Royal Perogative T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rupto Pac T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Serenity Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Shaky Flakes T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Sons of Yesterday T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Super Slide T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Surf Nazi T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Surplus Cheaper Hands T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Texas Chainsaw Massacre T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Trial By Fire T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unnamed 5.3 T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Unnamed Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Violent Bear It Away, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Y Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: George Watson, Brian Bennett and Norman Boles, 1986
Page Views: 1,775 total · 13/month
Shared By: Euan Cameron on Feb 1, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This fun climb starts with some thin climbing up to a ledge. Leave the ledge on the right and head up the well protected slab, aiming for the flake and easier climbing above.

An airy sequence, possible to protect by threading a long sling, to reach the belay at the top finishes off a good climb.

Location

Located just to the right of the Royal Arches Chimney

Protection

Bolts on the slab for the crux, cam for the flake. Slings useful near the top.

Photos

Maurice Chaunders
boise, id
 
Maurice Chaunders   boise, id
 
I don't remember a hanging belay, or any misery. It's kinda of slabby and I think you can just sorta lean/sit. A fun climb, thin on the face. Oh, and hard. Nov 27, 2012
Floyd Hayes
  5.10c PG13
Floyd Hayes  
  5.10c PG13
This climb was harder than I thought it would be. The first 40' consists of sustained 5.10 slab moves (much harder than 5.10a in my opinion), with the exception of an easy mantel. The lower half of the 5.6 crack is stellar but the upper half is rotten with marginal protection, though fortunately easy. The final 10' is a tricky, nearly holdless 5.8 trough, but fortunately it is well protected by a solid 1" cam at its base (I apparently overlooked the slot for threading a sling), and is the first bomber protection for about 40'. The hanging belay is miserable. Aug 2, 2010
George K. Watson
Nederland, CO
 
George K. Watson   Nederland, CO
 
The FA was done by George Watson, Brian Bennett and Norman Boles in 1986. Though not a classic, the route is quite enjoyable on typical Royal Arches little edges and smears. Jul 7, 2010