Type: Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches
FA: Chris Cantwell, Augie Klein 1980
Page Views: 1,253 total · 27/month
Shared By: King Tut on Sep 20, 2017
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Latest updates on Covid and falcon closures. Details

Description

This route lies between Y Crack and Poker Face and can be hard to see from the ground perched above a large dirty corner left of Poker Face (not King-Snake, TCSM is further left). The first pitch goes up a scruffy corner to a tree, with some rotten rock above the tree for kinda shyte pro then traverses a few slab moves (5.10, PG13) to the right to a flake that you follow to the top for the belay on the second pitch. This pitch is not very high quality and the 3+ star rating is for the second pitch only.

The second pitch (5.11a) is best done as a face climb at the thin start concentrating on your feet, then is solid 5.10+ classic splitter endurance fingers to the end. About an 50-60' pitch IIRC.

Micro Wires, plenty of small wires (ie BD 5-8 or so) and TCUs useful.

A Cantwell/Augie classic and must do on the Yose fingers circuit. Harder and steeper than Mr. Natural and more sustained than the Serenity crux but still a splitter slab finger crack. 3+ stars/4 stars.

Protection

Micro wires to small cams for the 2nd pitch. Standard rack and PG 13 for the first pitch.

Photos