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Texas Chainsaw Massacre
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British PG13
Avg: 3 from 7 votes
Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Chris Cantwell, Augie Klein 1980 |
Page Views: | 1,766 total · 22/month |
Shared By: | King Tut on Sep 20, 2017 |
Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
This route lies between Y Crack and Poker Face and can be hard to see from the ground perched above a large dirty corner left of Poker Face (not King-Snake, TCSM is further left). The first pitch goes up a scruffy corner to a tree, with some rotten rock above the tree for kinda shyte pro then traverses a few slab moves (5.10, PG13) to the right to a flake that you follow to the top for the belay on the second pitch. This pitch is not very high quality and the 3+ star rating is for the second pitch only.
The second pitch (5.11a) is best done as a face climb at the thin start concentrating on your feet, then is solid 5.10+ classic splitter endurance fingers to the end. About an 50-60' pitch IIRC.
Micro Wires, plenty of small wires (ie BD 5-8 or so) and TCUs useful.
A Cantwell/Augie classic and must do on the Yose fingers circuit. Harder and steeper than Mr. Natural and more sustained than the Serenity crux but still a splitter slab finger crack. 3+ stars/4 stars.
The second pitch (5.11a) is best done as a face climb at the thin start concentrating on your feet, then is solid 5.10+ classic splitter endurance fingers to the end. About an 50-60' pitch IIRC.
Micro Wires, plenty of small wires (ie BD 5-8 or so) and TCUs useful.
A Cantwell/Augie classic and must do on the Yose fingers circuit. Harder and steeper than Mr. Natural and more sustained than the Serenity crux but still a splitter slab finger crack. 3+ stars/4 stars.
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