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Routes in The Storm Boulders

Type: Boulder, 20 ft
FA: Brett Meyers
Page Views: 2,957 total · 36/month
Shared By: AWinters on Oct 20, 2011
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Description

Sit-start on a thin crescent-shaped flake. Move up thru decent edges and bulbs on the steep wall with keen footwork to a series of sharp diagonal crimps. As the chalk disappears and the holds get worse, find your way to the top with inconspicuously small edges on the steep slab.

Location

Lower (east) Storm Boulder - south face, right side. Just left of the arete.

Protection

Pads and spot

Photos

Lanky
Tired
Lanky   Tired
Is the arete out right off? Oct 21, 2011
BDalhaus
Bangor, ME
BDalhaus   Bangor, ME  
As far as I know, the arete is ok to use. For the bottom section of the problem the arete isn't in reach, and for the top there is only one good spot before it fades.

On a side note, one of the holds ripped off this climb last weekend, above the climbers head in the photo. The resulting fall left me pretty banged up. Oct 21, 2011
Lanky
Tired
Lanky   Tired
Bummer. Hope you heal up fast.

And thanks for the info; I always thought this thing was kind of an eliminate. Glad to know I was wrong. Oct 21, 2011
Eric Heiden
Derry, NH
Eric Heiden   Derry, NH
vimeo.com/32571491 Nov 30, 2011
Brian Nugent
  V10
Brian Nugent  
  V10
Another hold broke off. The left hand crimp that is below his left hand in the picture. I was still able to send using different beta. While the grade is probably the same I believe the new beta makes the problem better. Dec 30, 2011
Ian McAfee
Concord, NH
  V10
Ian McAfee   Concord, NH
  V10
Another hold broke on this thing, sadly, it's the first hold after the start hold you go to, the right side of the jug broke leaving it slightly smaller, definitely does not affect the grade. Sad to see this thing keep breaking it's such a fun climb. Oct 23, 2014
Matt T
Boston, MA
  V9
Matt T   Boston, MA
  V9
Seems like a lot of holds are now gone from the top of this problem. A few locals who climbed it before its current state seem to think the original finish isn't possible while keeping it v10

I've seen a couple of different variations to the finish, but it seems like the two most popular are:

1) working the arĂȘte for about 2 moves, then exiting to the slab
2) exiting to the slab via the massive pinch/jug left and down from the last hard move on the face (v9?)

Not that it totally matters, still a fun climb regardless of beta and grade :) May 10, 2015
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
What is the consensus for when to rock over onto the slab? I know there has been bunch of broken holds but I have seen a lot of different exit points, not sure which one is the true exit? Aug 8, 2015
DanielSong
  V9
DanielSong  
  V9
Looks like there was another break last week. The first right hand side pull broke quite a bit. Everything still goes, but definitely a tad bit harder. That being said, what's left of that crimp flexes under weight, so I don't think it's done breaking. Oct 31, 2016
Sucks to say but was climbing today and the third move right hand crimp broke again I sent after the break I say v10 now. Nov 24, 2017
William Flores
Woonsocket, Rhode Island
  V9-10
William Flores   Woonsocket, Rhode Island
  V9-10
Sent this thing Sunday, but the way I did it was probably the easier way. I toe hooked the left hand hold that you go to on the first move and crossed my left hand over to a decent pinch right above the right hand crimp, Bumped my right hand to the arete, then cut feet and gained the juggy pinch on the arete and climbed up a lil then rocked onto the slab for the top out. Nov 28, 2017

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