Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,644 total · 12/month
Shared By: Ladd on Apr 18, 2007
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

Sit start of Terrorist.

Edited to Add 9-12-07. Thank you Tristan Perry.
The start is extreme lowball (scary, you're almost lying down) and it's really hard to pull off the ground, let alone get on with the rest of the problem. That is by far the hardest move on the entire problem. Small but positive crimps follow up and right to the rest of the Terrorist to gain the starting stance for Terrorist.

Location

On the left end of the Storm Boulder if you're facing Ride the Lightning

Protection

One or two pads, and a competent spot will make you feel better about the mantle/slabby top.

Photos

Lanky
Tired
  V8
Lanky   Tired
  V8
Location: On the left end of the Storm Boulder if you're facing Ride the Lightning.

Protection: One or two pads, and a competent spot will make you feel better about the mantle/slabby top.

The start feels unpossible. The rest is a little beta intensive (at least for me), and getting the high foot before slapping the seams and pressing out the mantle-y move is awkward. And yet I keep coming back for more. Sep 17, 2008
Lanky
Tired
  V8
Lanky   Tired
  V8
To start, it's apparently kosher to match hands on the bad, sloping crimp/dish at seated head height. Sep 25, 2008
BDalhaus
Bangor, ME
  V9
BDalhaus   Bangor, ME  
  V9
That's where I've always seen people start it. Keep in mind Tristan is kind of tall, so it might feel a bit low to him. Sep 25, 2008
I wish someone would change the description...my edit sounds lame and this problem is so cool it deserves better.

My $0.02:

Wow, you guys match on that starting hold? I've alway try to crimp it right-handed with a straight arm, other hand crossed to the sidepull underneath, high left foot pushing/pulling, and a straight leg as far underneath the boulder as possible on a nubbin. Then I lurch upward and roll inward with my shoulders enough to deadpoint to the good left crimp above. And then it's just a matter of doing all the moves *just right* to get up onto the slab.

Cold temperatures help, and in my opinion, the cleaner (read: less chalk) that starting hold is, the easier the problem goes. Oct 20, 2008
Lanky
Tired
  V8
Lanky   Tired
  V8
Yup. I do a kind of fingerstack/crimp on the left part of the starting hold and crimp a little ripple on the hold with my right. High foot out left, right leg hangning, pull up and deadpoint with the right hand to the first crimp. The rest is pretty easy to read. Oct 21, 2008
GarrettM
bedford, nh
GarrettM   bedford, nh
i also like the variation of starting on a big arrowhead at waist height just the the right of the tree, and go straight up to the gaston/seam, and match it. problem is, it blanks out once you get your foot up of the lip to the seam.

and doesnt the guide book say its v6? Jul 3, 2009
Jesse Coburn
Manchester, NH
Jesse Coburn   Manchester, NH
polish is V8, and the stand start on the sloper thing is V6 Jul 3, 2009
Troy Fauteux
Henniker NH
  V9
Troy Fauteux   Henniker NH
  V9
I some how managed to send this problem. The first move is so hard and the link up is by no means easy either. Footage of this climb starts at 5:22
youtube.com/watch?v=gZDYL2i… Nov 28, 2015